Since gaining independence from Soviet rule in the early 90s, the Latvian capital of Riga has blossomed in to a vibrant city where elements of the East and Europe combine to offer an intriguing destination for visitors. With Estonia to the North and Lithuania to the South, Riga is the largest city in the Baltic states.

Straddling the Daugava river is its gem, the old town dating back to medieval times where meandering lane ways sit in the shadows of towering, intricate architecture. For design buffs, Riga is home to the world’s largest collection of Art Nouveau buildings, found just North of Old town.

In summer, the streets are alive with tourists spilling out on to the pavement with alfresco seating to rival to any Italian city. In winter the mood subdues somewhat, and the streets are yours to wander with fewer tourists, a romantic ambience and cosy subterranean bars.

Riga’s Central market is relatively unknown. It’s the largest market in Europe, where five old Zeppelin hangers, leftover from the war, each sell different food groups, dairy, seafood, meat and more. There is an abundance of stalls and even more just outside! Small vendors set up trestle tables, selling produce freshly plucked from their gardens or foraged from the forests that surround the city.

Latvians are said to be among the last pagans in Europe and their affinity with nature is evident at these stalls where infused oils, dried herbs, syrups and a huge variety of teas can be found. If you’re lucky – like I was once – you may even spot some potions and elixirs of sorts for sale!

For contemporary Latvian cuisine which pairs local ingredients with European staples, try the seafood restaurant Barents, or 3 Pavaru Restorans, (3 brothers restaurant) which has been satisfying the appetites of locals and tourists alike for years now.

For those seeking a taste of authentic local fare served with a generous side of nostalgia, there are some gems worth visiting. You’ll find a genuine taste of the region at some of the stalls that straddle each side of the meat hanger in the aforementioned market, or at one of the many Lido restaurants scattered around town. These eateries offer a hearty taste of Baltic staples, among Russian dishes hanging over from Soviet times. Look out for grey peas and bacon, a heavy dish, unique to Latvia.

For extra speedy food that’s light on the wallet, try XL Pelmeni where Baltic dumplings are served from warm broth and sold by weight. They’re absolutely delicious with spring onions and a healthy dollop of sour cream.

For snacks, try the local rye garlic bread bites served at many bars with beer and wine, or find a local bakery. The assortment of unique baked goods is exceptional. Look for an orange tart known as sklandrausis. This sweet/savoury carrot pie, flavoured with caraway is so unique to Latvia that its been deemed “Traditional Speciality Guaranteed” by the European Commission (EC). Latvian cheesecakes (biezpienmaize), flavoured with berries are also delicious, no matter the time of day.

With each visit I’ve watched Riga become more gentrified, like the European cities with which we’re more familiar. So make a point to get there soon… before all the magical little details disappear, and the elixirs and potions are off the table.

Baltic: New & Old Recipes: Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania by Simon Bajada (RRP $35.00) is published by Hardie Grant. 

Riga Central Market Nēģu iela 7, Latgales priekšpilsēta, Rīga, LV-1050, Latvia

XL Pelmeņi Kaļķu iela 7 · Near St. Peter’s Church

BARENTS seafood fine dining Smilšu iela 3

3 Brothers restaurant (3 pavāru restorāns) Jēkaba kazarmas, Torņa iela 4, Centra rajons, Rīga, LV-1050, Latvia

Lido restaurant locations www.lido.lv/lv/