It’s a cool Sunday afternoon, and the leaves of the sugar maples have turned a rich amber hue. It’s idyllic conditions for a walk through Central Park, but as I trace my way around The Pond, it begins to rain, and couples in their big coats begin to huddle together under their umbrellas. It’s one of those classic New York moments, reminiscent of a Nora Ephron film – minus the dashing late-1990s Tom Hanks and his bounding canine companion.

As I turn back towards the city, with its soaring skyscrapers on the horizon, I catch a glimpse of one of the city’s true legends, and my home for the next two nights – The Plaza Hotel.

The hotel

An icon since its opening, the hotel has for the last 117 years been the go-to place for royalty – both British (the Duke and Duchess of York) and American (the Kennedys) as well as Golden Age Hollywood heavyweights (think Bette Davis and Marilyn Monroe) and literary luminaries including F. Scott Fitzgerald and Truman Capote.

It’s easy to see why when walking through the bronze revolving doors of the hotel’s Fifth Avenue foyer – swathes of Caen stone and white ornamental plaster adorn the walls, while marble Corinthian columns, gilded mouldings and crystal chandeliers hanging from the sprawling ceilings cast a magical golden glow that emanates old-world glamour. Then there are the displays of freshly cut flowers that are attended to by staff each morning, and the steady stream of guests checking in and out, with bellhops carrying luggage to and from the private cars waiting out front.

The rooms

Of the Plaza’s 282 rooms, I find myself staying in an Edwardian one-bedroom king suite. The room is a seamless extension of the hotel’s Beaux-Arts interiors, with King Louis XIV-style furniture, including gilded armchairs, velvet lounges and classical-style crystal chandelier lighting.

The suite features a powder room and a parlour with a wet bar, seamlessly connected to the bedroom. After a day exploring Manhattan on foot, the heavenly pillow-top mattress and luxurious sheets are a godsend. However, it’s the expansive bathroom – and its walk-in shower, soaking tub and opulent 24-carat gold faucet and fixtures – that steals my heart during my two-night stay.

While most rooms look out to views of 85th Street or an interior courtyard (an extensive 2008 renovation to complete much-needed restoration and repair work saw the majority of park-view rooms converted to private residences), one-of-a-kind suites, like the Fitzgerald suite (designed by Oscar-winner Catherine Martin) and the Eloise one-bedroom king room, pay tribute to the Plaza’s famed guests, both fictional and real, with whimsical interiors. 

For the ultimate Plaza experience, though, the grand penthouse on the 20th floor sprawls over two levels, with views of Central Park and a private terrace off the main bedroom. This makes it feel more like a true Manhattan abode than a hotel suite. It also comes with a serious Manhattan price tag of $23,175 USD (or $35,267 AUD) per night. 

The food and drink

Palm Court

For more than a century, visitors (and locals) have sat under the domed green and purple rose-tinted glass ceiling of The Plaza’s Palm Court for afternoon tea. Here, amid a room lined with a decadent creamy-white limestone and palm trees, jacketed waiters navigate between cane furniture and mirrored tables adorned with green and white china (made exclusively for The Plaza by Bernardaud), balancing towers of finger sandwiches and trays of Champagne and tea to the tunes of Nat King Cole. There are four afternoon tea experiences on offer, starting with the Central Park tea menu ($120 USD per person) featuring sandwiches, scones, pastries and sweets (and, of course, tea) through to the decadent Grand Imperial tea, which comes with caviar service and two glasses of Cristal ($599 USD for two). 

Leaning into the decadence of the room, I opt for the seasonal Signature tea ($145 USD per person). There are playful touches throughout the menu, such as pink macarons filled with a rich foie gras mousse and adorned with truffle mayonnaise and caviar, and a mango coconut tart designed to look like a hard-boiled egg. The service is exceptional – my waiter has to do little to convince me that I need a glass of Champagne (or a second later on, for that matter), and between delivering new pots of tea even drops off a postcard of The Plaza he’ll mail home upon my departure. It’s an almost faultless experience, marred only by the occasional stream of tourists walking in to pose for selfies. Afternoon tea here is such an occasion, the hotel has an inspiration board to help guests stick to the dress code. 

Champagne Bar

Located near the lobby, this chic corner bar is a private haven frequented by hotel guests (though the venue is open to the public) with views overlooking Fifth Avenue and the Pulitzer Fountain. It’s quieter than the nearby Palm Court, serving breakfast, light snacks and cocktails. The bar shifts from scenes of women in Chanel jackets enjoying Champagne and brunch in the morning to an elegant cocktail bar in the evening. Following a morning run around Central Park, I prepare for a full day of retail therapy with an order of the signature eggs benedict – a decadent twist on the classic, served with black truffle and a side of roasted tomato and breakfast potatoes. Later that evening, I find myself recuperating over a glass (or two) of Duval-Leroy Rosé Champagne, taking full advantage of the bar’s prime location for people-watching. 

The details

New York is a city overflowing with iconic experiences – from the open-air observatory atop the Empire State Building to ice skating at Rockefeller Center, exploring the vast halls of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, or catching a dazzling Broadway show in Times Square. Yet few experiences can rival the timeless elegance and grandeur of indulging in afternoon tea at The Palm Court or calling The Plaza your home, even if it’s just for a few magical nights.

Overnight rates for the one-bedroom Edwardian king suite begin at $1500 USD ($2285 AUD) per night. For more and to book, see theplazany.com

This writer was a guest of The Plaza Hotel New York.