But the sushi is pretty damn good as well.
Visiting Tokyo can be overwhelming – these days, so much travel just isn’t foreign enough, but Japan still provides the culture shock we expected pre-globalisation (thanks, Year Nine economics!). While the locals want to help you get around, it’s a misnomer to think everyone speaks English (they don’t). The customs are many, varied and confusing for outsiders, and the landscape ranges from busy to busier to busiest. Tokyo, in particular, is bustling in a way that not many other cities on this planet are – people walk and talk and eat and drink all at the same time, while managing not to bump into the other 6 million people doing the same thing at subway platforms and streets all over the city. It’s a marvel that is well worth beholding.
Japanese food is too often narrowed down to just “sushi” or “ramen” or “tempura.” And while these dishes are delicious and absolutely famous for a reason, the reality is that modern Japanese food is far broader and more cosmopolitan than these would suggest. For starters, Japanese chefs do borrow from Western culture, and lovingly adapt concepts like pastry and coffee to suit their own cuisines. The results are spectacular, and you’ve got to give them a go.
Here are some Tokyo dishes you’ve got to try (and one you should avoid), in no particular order…
Cake
I know, I know – cake and Japan are not exactly synonymous. But Tokyo is home to some of the world’s most beautiful-looking (and tasting) cakes. Most are served in single slices, topped with pretty, kitschy decorations and ready to eat right this very second.
Onigiri at Lawson stores
Lawsons are the 7-11s of Japan, but way better. For starters, they sell pre-packaged sushi you will be able to eat and not contract food poisoning from. Crazy, right? These triangular pouches of rice, seaweed and a filling (meat, fish or veggies) are perfect for an on-the-go snack and taste amazing.
Traditional Japanese breakfast
Skip the cereal and scrambled eggs at your hotel buffet and instead, have a traditional Japanese AM feast. A generous mix of tofu, rice, fish, pickles and Japanese omelette, this brekky is big – but it won’t leave you bloated.
Coffee
Ignore the vending machine cans (seriously, they’re everywhere) and get your caffeine fix at any number of excellent Tokyo cafes. They’re all over the place and they serve the kind of coffee we know and love here in Australia. Better than your $4 flat white here, though, in Tokyo you’ll usually score a small sweet treat with your morning joe, and you can bet your bottom yen it’ll be as beautifully packaged as David Beckham’s… um, package.
A giant can of beer
Again, from Lawson. The other difference between Japan’s convenience stores and ours is that Japan’s are civilised and sell very good, very cheap and very giant beers.
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