7am – Culture club

Beat the tourists to the Trevi Fountain, then check in to CasaCau (Via in Arcione, 94), fitted out with mod kitchenettes and bright poster inlays in a 17th century building. Wander to the Spanish Steps and do as Casanova, Wagner and Byron have and grab an espresso at 18th century Antico Caffe Greco (Via dei Condotti, 86).

10am – Breakfast of gladiators

Pick up some burrata and hand-cut prosciutto at Salumeria Roscioli (Via dei Giubbonari, 21), and don’t forget to reach over diners with their plates of bombolloti all’amatriciana for a bottle of Italy’s best for later. Then head east to the Colosseum and eat breakfast alfresco.

1.15pm – DIY bites

Wander through the Pantheon and then on into L’Antica Salumeria (Piazza della Rotonda, 5), stocked with wheels of cheese and hanging salumi, for a browse. There’s also whole-roasted, crackling-skinned pig from which tender meat is stuffed into sandwiches, and a wine bar out back.

2pm – Eye for tradition

For traditional Roman dishes done well, lunch at Armando al Pantheon (Salita dei Crescenzi, 31). The smart trattoria opened in 1961 and does whole Roman artichokes in spring, black truffle bruschetta, and the city’s creamiest carbonara.

4pm – Bathing beauty

Have a workout with a walk around the colossal 62-acre ruins of the 3rd century Roman Baths of Caracalla (Viale delle Terme di Caracalla). Here, Romans bathed in pools heated by enormous underground ovens, and socialised on mosaic floors among museum-worthy sculptures.

6.30pm – Get out of town

Rome’s traditional dishes are in no danger of extinction, but at far flung 12-seater Mazzo (Via delle Rose, 54) in Centocelle two chefs are giving Roman food new direction. Small plates are served until 8pm and span plump ricotta and borage gnudi to rosti with Romanesco broccoli.

8pm – Nonna’s way

What’s a day-long Roman tour without two dinners? Tram Tram (Via dei Reti, 44) balances shabby chic and old-fashioned, and the fava bean puree with fried anchovies and roast quail is as nonna would have it. Skip dessert for now.

10pm – Sweet stroll

Find dessert back near CasaCau at La Gelato Frigidarium (Via del Governo Vecchio, 112). Line up for scoops of vibrant flavours including pistachio, limone, Nutella and melone.