International Travel

Vietnamese bun cha via enchanting Hoi An

Enchanting Hoi An

Photographer Jeremy Simons sets his sights beyond the delicious. studio to focus on the bustling local life in the old Vietnamese port of Hoi An.

Flying south to Da Nang from the Vietnamese capital, Hanoi, the densely packed streets soon fade into an endless stretch of serene coastline. After a short taxi journey in 36-degree heat, I arrive at the enchanting coastal town of Hoi An. My first stop when I land in a new country is setting up my camera and hunting down a cold beer.

On my search for a bar, I come across a seven-foot Aussie guy exclaiming, “That was the best meal I’ve ever eaten, mate,” near an elegant French-colonial building. I’m relieved to see Morning Glory on the sign above the door – it’s the place every foodie I know has recommended. The open-plan kitchen pumps out authentic dishes such as banh xeo (crispy pancakes with pork, prawns and bean sprouts) and white rose dumplings filled with spicy prawn meat.

I’m an early riser, which is handy as the best light for photography is in the morning. This is when Vietnam comes alive: the daily catch is hauled in from the sea, produce is wheeled into markets from nearby farms, and street food stalls attract the first crowds of the day. At Hoi An’s Central Market, fresh seafood glints in the morning sun and colourful rows of dragon fruit, melons and herbs stand to attention like soldiers at morning roll call. A crowd has already gathered around a stall offering bun cha, a breakfast dish of delicate broth-like dipping sauce laced with pickled carrot, pork meatballs and slices of marinated pork chargrilled over coals. Rice noodles and fresh herbs are served with the dish.

When travelling, there’s only one rule I live by when deciding where to eat: follow the locals. Here, it leads me to Banh Mi Phuong, a little family-run joint near the market that’s been serving Vietnam’s famous baguette sandwiches for more than 20 years, and which rose to fame when featured on Anthony Bourdain’s show No Reservations. The original banh mi is layered with four types of pork, herbs, salad and chilli dressing.

Walking the streets of the Old Town at night, there’s the buzz of local bars and the magical glow of lanterns. People, motorbikes and noise are everywhere. Photographing countries like Vietnam is so refreshing; people seem to do most things on the street – eating, cooking and happily sharing their lives with neighbours, as well as strangers like me, keen for a glimpse into their way of life.

For more travel inspiration and international news be sure to check out here. Also be sure to check out our favourite banh mi recipe here, and the best bun cha recipe here.

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