As we slip anchor in the Sardinian port of Olbia, Valiant Lady makes her way to the open sea. I’ve quickly come to understand that Virgin Voyages doesn’t offer a one-size-fits-all experience. As I take to the deck to marvel at the rugged mountainous landscape of the island, sunseekers soak up the last rays, and the ship’s bars are in full swing, a DJ keeping the tempo high. The more virtuous of passengers take to The Runway, an outdoor running track that sits atop the ship on deck 17.

Cruise your way

We all travel in different ways, and Virgin Voyages’ adult-only policy caters for night owls and early risers alike. At the Grounds Club – the ship’s coffee shop – you can’t fail to overhear tales of the previous night in The Manor (a nightclub named after Sir Richard Branson’s original recording studio), wins in the casino or hot restaurant tips. We’ve all had that feeling of needing a holiday after the holiday, and considering my seven days aboard, with Barcelona bookends, I take wellness seriously on this sailing. A morning routine has me hitting one of the gyms, shooting hoops for the first time in decades, and taking to The Runway. All before dawn. An early booking at Redemption, the onboard spa, has the added luxury of having the run of steam, salt and mud rooms. It is, of course, all a prime excuse to book for brunch at the likes of Razzle Dazzle, a vibrant American(ish) casual diner, or The Wake, perhaps the ship’s classiest restaurant which, as the name suggests, looks out over the ship’s churning wake.

Island life

Cruise naysayers may tell you that shore days don’t allow travellers to experience a destination fully. But a cruise is a taste, planting the seed of a return. Our day in Sardinia is spent exploring the Costa Smeralda on a small group tour, wending our way up mountain roads in a 4WD, our guide relaying words to us in Sardinian and Italian. The granite landscape is studded with dry stone walls and hardy vineyards, and in a narrow lane we’re introduced to an icon of the island – natural cork trees – and learn how its bark is sustainably harvested. Hunting season has just started, and occasionally our driver stops as hunting dogs cross our path. It’s all part of a seasonal culture that drives life here.

Stopping for what is billed as a late-morning snack, our guide presents a table of local cheeses and cured meats that, she tells us, are made by local shepherds. A hearty and welcome meal, it’s washed down by potent local vino. San Pantaleo, dominated by towering granite mountains, dates to 800AD, but since the 1970s, it’s been a magnet for artisans. With the weekly market, restaurants and bars in full swing, it’s a spot that you could wile away a full day and, even though our time here is brief, there’s a taste of the town, as well as of the Mediterranean’s second-largest island.

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A tale of two cities

In Marseille, we walk the harbourside, where small boats sit on their moorings. The Fort Saint-Jean, a presence in the Old Port since the 12th century, now connects to MuCEM (Museum of the Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean) via a striking walkway. It’s a neat meeting of old and new. While there are harbourside restaurants which may or may not

be tourist traps, and doubtless some good spots for a pastis over ice – the quintessential drink of the Marseillais – we’re on the search for something else. In the gritty but vibrant streets of the city’s 6th Arrondissement, Libala sees chef owner Hugues Mbenda fusing Marseille food culture with that of the Democratic Republic of Congo. It’s African “in spirit”, says Mathilde Godart, the other half of this husband-and-wife team. Ingredients are fresh and local, such as a mackerel served with plum, pickles and radish.

Other dishes have elements of bold peanuts and mild spice, while house-made drinks such as mint and hibiscus or vanilla and lemon are revelatory. While Libala is a casual restaurant, Mbenda’s experience at the helm of Michelin-starred restaurants is evident. Moving to larger premises nearby in 2023, Libala will seat just 40 for lunch and dinner. A reason to return.

In Cannes, we’re less concerned with its reputation as an annual destination for Hollywood A-listers, and more about experiencing a day in the life of a local. We promenade along La Croisette, shop at the Marché Forville (the French are still accustomed to shopping daily) and pick up cheese from Fromagerie Ceneri, a culinary fixture since 1968. The owners are quick to recommend favourite restaurants, bars and the Boulangerie Le Saint Antoine. A tip that pays off.

From the oven

In Ibiza, I’d like to say that I’m rediscovering a long-ago love of club culture, but instead I’m saving myself for culinary pursuits. Grabbing a cab at the port, our plans are fluid, and quickly change when our driver tells us of El Carmen, a coastal restaurant at Cala d’Hort. Surprised, and a little delighted when we ask her to take us there, she tells us the joy of her job is, “I am Ibizan; I love to show people my Ibiza.”

From its terrace overlooking the islands of Es Vedrà and Es Vedranell, El Carmen does a brisk trade in paella, with waiters suggesting it immediately. Sensing we’re hungry for something a little less obvious, our waiter rushes excitedly to the kitchen. Returning with a whole fish, its eyes glistening, he gestures with his hands that it will be oven roasted. Sold.

Set your course

In Korean, the word gun bae means “cheers” or “empty the glass,” which is exactly what we do at the onboard barbecue restaurant of the same name on our last night with the Valiant Lady. Seated communally, our server cooks at the table, introducing our small group to a drinking game. Downing a shot of soju as we’re knocked out, we all cry, “GUN BAE!” 

It’s a fitting final example of the Virgin ethos that has been woven through every aspect of our week aboard or ashore. Fun, inclusivity and plotting your own course are all to be expected.

At a glance

Who: Valiant Lady sails the Mediterranean in the northern summer months, spending her winters travelling through the Caribbean.
Where: Visit some of the Mediterranean’s most famous cities and islands, embarking from the Valiant Lady’s home port of Barcelona, Spain.
What: Valiant Lady offers the ultimate adults-only cruising experience, with 20+ eateries, live entertainment, a three- bar nightclub and even a tattoo parlour onboard.

For more information or to book, visit virginvoyages.com

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