Rolling waves break gently on the shore to a slow rhythm as the sun rises on another day. The air is already warm, scented with the smell of burning incense. It’s 6.30am, and I’ve woken up in Vietnam, at the Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai, having made the 30km journey south from Danang the previous night.

The private pool attached to my villa is flanked by manicured gardens and looks so inviting, my morning has to begin with a swim. Refreshed, I watch fishermen return to shore, inspecting their nets for the night’s haul. Located 11 kilometres north of the UNESCO World Heritage city of Hoi An, the resort stretches for more than a kilometre along Ha My beach and is, in the very essence of the word, truly luxurious.

There’s a genuine sense of peace and tranquillity. Each of the 100 villas has been carefully positioned to make the most of phony thuy (feng shui) principles and the offshore beach breeze. All very welcome, when temperatures often peak in the mid-30s and the average humidity year-round sits at 80 per cent.

My villa comes complete with a separate outdoor shower, sweeping views of the beach, a private courtyard and round-the-clock butler service. And while I could easily spend my entire stay without leaving its comforts, there’s a whole day of activities and exploration ahead of me.

The resort has been designed around a central hub, which is home to the reception, restaurants and main pools. It’s here that I enjoy breakfast at Cafe Nam Hai with its open kitchen led by executive chef Alex Stapfer. There are the staple Western options you’ll find at most Four Seasons resorts, but the point of difference here is the Vietnamese offerings. A glass of freshly pressed coffee layered with a decadent layer of rich condensed milk sets me up for a day out in Hoi An.

From the resort, the city is a quick 15-minute drive that sees us pass through rice paddies intersected by modern developments slowly encroaching on the historic sites of this ancient place.

Hoi An received UNESCO world cultural heritage status in 1999 and it’s a prime example of a living museum. For some, life among the hustle of street vendors and markets has remained more or less as it was since the early 16th century, when the city was Vietnam’s most vibrant trading port. The annual floods from the nearby Thu Bon River seem of little concern to locals, who mark the water levels from years gone by on their shops and properties, just as their ancestors once did. It might be ancient, but there are definite signs of modern life here. Overhead, chaotic webs of power and telephone lines are disguised by the lanterns that fill the city streets, and there’s free wi-fi for travellers.

For decades, travellers seeking fine silk garments and suits have come to Hoi An for its wealth of respected tailors and dressmakers. But it’s the hawkers and vendors that take my fancy. With a leap of faith, I cross the street, dodging the hustle of motorbikes and cars, to the central market. At the centre of the city, the marketplace, much like that of a classic Italian piazza, is the beating heart of the city’s culture.

Tran Van Sen, a chef at the resort, has offered to let me shadow him for the morning. Snaking our way through the market, among the mayhem of locals and vendors going about their daily routine, my senses are in overdrive. Fragrant bouquets of Vietnamese mint are contrasted by waves of chilli and the intensity of fermented fish sauce. As part of the Four Season’s commitment to being more than just a resort, everything we pick up in our morning expedition will later be used in its new Cooking Academy program, which aims to showcase the breadth of regional Vietnamese cuisine.

Back at the resort, Chef Sen leads us through the resort’s garden, which is filled with 35 local herbs and commonly used vegetables. The resort aims to use as much produce as possible from the garden in its restaurants. As part of the Cooking Academy program, guest can sign up for single- or multiple-day lessons in the custom-built academy kitchen. On our visit, we work our way through nem cua be (crispy crab rolls filled with wood ear mushrooms, pork and prawn that are delicately fried until golden and crisp) and, under Sen’s skilful eye, a classic bun cha (grilled pork with vermicelli) that ticks all the right boxes after my morning exploring the ancient town. We sit and enjoy the rewards of our work at a communal table before being presented with a certificate of our achievement.

In such an incredible location, there’s plenty to see and do within and beyond the resort. The key is balancing adventure and exploration with relaxation. To that end, I spend an afternoon in the resort’s Heart of the Earth Spa, set on its lotus pond. Eight floating suites ensure there’s plenty of opportunity to enjoy treatments based on the “virtues of stability, creativity and non-judgment”. On this visit, I opt for a ‘stability and calming’ treatment that focuses on opening the energy centres in my feet, followed by a back and shoulder massage. It’s all so serene that I drift off and wake to the sound of eight crystal alchemy bowls that, my therapist tells me, have been tuned to 432Hz, said to be the same frequency of vibration found in nature.

The treatment concludes with a ‘Goodnight Kiss to the Earth’ – a ceremonial fixture at the resort. With the sun sinking from an amber sky, visitors are gestured to write a love letter to the Earth and place this with a candle on the lotus pond, to float off into the night. I find it therapeutic and deeply spiritual, and it cements the truly restorative ethos at the resort. I float back to my villa, relieved of any stress, ready for one of the best night’s sleep I’ve had in months.

The next day, feeling truly refreshed, we head out on an expedition with Jack Tran Tours to experience a day in a life of a local fisherman. Adrenaline sets in as we hop into traditional Vietnamese basket boats and make our way through coconut palm lagoons, an area once well known as a Viet Cong hideout during the Vietnam War. It’s a tour that’s part exhilarating, part eye-opening. We visit a local fishing family to learn the tricks of their trade. Life has a very different pace here, one reliant on tides and floods. The family we visit live on an outlying island on the Cua Dai River and survive by simple means. It’s the reality faced by many who live on the river, and one the resort isn’t trying to hide, allowing guests to get their hands dirty in the experience. We throw nets out, inspecting our modest bounty, and leave with an astounding sense of Vietnamese hospitality and generosity.

If venturing out isn’t your thing, you needn’t leave the resort for a taste of adventure. The Vietnamese are well known for their strong sense of food and family, and the resort offers a truly immersive experience with its street food nights. After drinks at the beach bar, we navigate through a night of serious eating under a starlit sky. Suckling pig, carefully prepared by the kitchen, is but one centrepiece for our culinary expedition. Steamed buns (bánh bao), pho and copious amounts of noodles ensure we leave with an understanding of just how extensive Vietnamese cuisine is. It’s another example of how the resort manages to strike a balance between immersion and comfort, offering guests the ability to dive right in or take part in the experience at your own pace.

Further adventure and discoveries can be found in several of the resort’s day trips. Make the 60km drive to My Son Sanctuary, another UNESCO World Heritage Centre, and explore the ancient ruined temple set among the jungle, or stroll the historic streets of the Imperial City of Hue, Vietnam’s former imperial capital. There is, of course, the resort’s four tennis courts and health club. Or kick back, as I found myself doing often, at the three tiers of beachfront infinity pools with a cocktail in hand. Luxury here at The Nam Hai is more than just comfort; it’s an authentic experience that offers travellers the chance to really engage in Vietnamese culture.

Walking back to my villa along the palm-strewn beach, taking in one final look at paradise, I think to myself that this is just the beginning of my adventures with this astonishing country.

Getting there:

Vietnam Airlines departs from most major Australian cities, with flights to Da Nang via Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. For more see, vietnamairlines.com

Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai
Block Ha My Dong B, Điện Bàn, Vietnam
fourseasons.com/hoian