Start the day in Rio‘s Jardim Botânico (Rua Pacheco Leão, 101). Highlights include the 200-year-old avenue of Imperial palms and views of the famous statue, Christ the Redeemer.

Fuel-up with breakfast at Confeitaria Colombo (Rua Gonçalves Dias, 32), a favourite downtown cafe for its ornate interiors and killer custard tarts.

A clutch of new museums have revived Rio’s old port district. Top picks include Museu do Amanhã (Praça Mauá, 1, Centro), housed in an appropriately futuristic building (its name means “Museum of Tomorrow”), and Museu de Arte do Rio (Praça Mauá, 5, Centro, pictured) which features art reflecting the culture, history and people of Rio.

With its cobbled streets and colonial mansions, boho Santa Teresa is one of Rio’s most delightful neighbourhoods. Admire the surreal Escadaria Selaron steps (pictured), before enjoying lunch in the lush Aprazivel (Aprazível, 62) al fresco restaurant. Try the scallops served with manioc cream, or the red wine-roasted goat.

The reality of Rio’s notorious shantytowns is different to what most people imagine. Take a walking tour with a company such as Urban Adventures to see the city‘s other way of life.

Take time to check out Rio’s famous beach culture. Head to Ipanema (pictured) or Leblon, two adjoining sandy stretches which offer some of the best people-watching around.

Brazilians love their botecos (local bars); the popular Jobi (Av. Ataulfo de Paiva, 1166 B) is a Leblon institution. Order a glass of chopp (draught beer) and some prawn empanadas to tide you over until dinner. Brazilians eat late.

Rua Dias Ferreira in Leblon is Rio’s ultimate eat street. Locals love Sushi Leblon (256, pictured), but other good options include Venga (113) for tapas and Togu (90) for Asian fusion.

Lapa, the city’s most exciting after-dark area, is home to the buzzing Rio Scenarium (Rua do Lavradio, 20, Centro), an all ages double-duty venue: by day, it is an antique shop; after dark, the samba beats reign.