Koh Samui is a tourists’ haven for its white sandy beaches, laid-back Thai style and diversity of attractions. From backpackers and full-moon partygoers chasing beach raves, right through to families, spa and wellness seekers, and major luxury players, everyone seems to co-exist easily among the island’s idyllic surrounds. It’s hard to believe Thailand’s second largest island is still a relatively new tourist development, with the airport only completed in 1989. The main beach of Chaweng on the southeast coast is a good base for exploring the island, and the temperate water, soft waves and bean bags dotting the glistening sand make it equally easy to just stay put.

It’s a happy place where you can feast street-side or dine on world-class local food. The Fisherman’s Village is abuzz with exotic produce and finds, so it’s worth a wander through the stalls. For cheap eats, locals recommend the beachside Krua Chao Baan restaurant, 20 minutes south of Chaweng. Perched over the ocean, the open eatery with thatched roofs is an amazing spot with a casual vibe. Think cheerful blue plastic table cloths, quirky garden gnomes and Strawberry Shortcake figurines. The menu is extensive and driven by the day’s catch @kerrie_mccallum – when we visit, it’s perfectly cooked whole steamed snapper in lime juice and garlic, paired with a plate of grilled squid and some local pak liang leaf (found only in the south of the country) scrambled with eggs, and washed down with a couple of Singha beers. Squid is plentiful and cheap – you’ll find whole ones at the fish markets for 10 baht (less than 50¢). At night you’ll see tiny lights dotting the horizon – the squidding boats casting a faraway glow over the throbbing lights on Chaweng Beach. The adventurous can even travel out with the fishermen if you fancy squidding and don’t suffer from seasickness! ‘Sweet Street’, off Route 4169 (south of Chaweng) that leads down to the Hin Ta and Hin Yai (grandfather and grandmother) rock formations in Lamai Beach, is also worth a visit. The rocks, which are sacred to locals, attract tourists because of their uncanny resemblance to female and male genitalia. But food lovers will enjoy the daily market and the coconut juices or ices, served in coconut shells. Buy a bag of the local kalamae to take away – an addictive sweet, sticky but soft candy made on site from glutinous rice flour, palm sugar and coconut cream with a lovely caramel flavour. Coconut is the island’s main produce and export (they are even used to make furniture); Koh Samui’s plantations supply all of Thailand and are situated in the centre of island, which is mountainous. Monkeys are trained to harvest the coconuts, due to the dangerous nature of the profession (and because the monkeys are so efficient at the job!), and as such are considered prized pets. Coconut dominates the island’s cuisine, from the fresh juice to the cream used in a variety of curries and desserts.

Food lovers (and lounge lizards) are spoilt for choice when it comes to accommodation on the island, but The Library is the pick of the bunch. Named after the idea that guests write their own stories (each villa or room also takes its name from a chapter), the quietly sophisticated hotel is situated in the middle of the action, but manages to feel completely separate from the vibrant party bars scattered on the north end of Chaweng Beach. The service is remarkable. We were greeted on arrival at 7.30am with a scoop of orange sorbet and homemade lemonade, which made our kids’ day.

Completing its collection of unique ‘chapters’, The Library recently launched two new absolute beachfront villas: The Writer and The Editor, which break from the minimalist ethos the resort is known for. The ultra-luxe interior of The Writer is the standout: flamboyant and exotic, with a custom-made 11-foot-wide (3.35m) bed and spectacular outdoor cinema overlooking a private pool.

The Editor has a romantic aesthetic with seductive red shades designed to awake passion, full dining area with pantry, reading room, private pool and the hallmark bed. Unfortunately for families, the new villas, created by renowned designer Tirawan Songsawat, are adults-only, but it’s hard to imagine a better way to start a honeymoon.

With only 46 studios or suites spread over 12,800 square metres, the elegant but laid-back vibe is unique (its appealing mantra is ‘zero attitude’), with plenty of space for families and honeymooners. Perhaps one of its biggest drawcards is its Instagram-worthy, spectacular ‘red pool’. There is also a book and CD depository where you can borrow a few great reads, and our suite boasted the largest bed we’ve ever seen (Brangelina-style, sleeping 6-8), which emphasises the impression that everything in the resort is dedicated to comfort.

Even if you’re not staying on site, the restaurant or wine bar is worth a visit for its high-quality local food. Resident chef Eric Adnan is so accommodating of our dietary requirements, he even creates new dishes for us and sends me away with yam flour and bags of roasted chickpeas to try. He tested some fresh menu ideas on our kids, and got the thumbs up on a ‘tom yum’ pizza. Canvas Wine Bar is The Library’s bottle shop, and next door, the Drink Gallery sells a selection of good wines and Champagne by the bottle. It’s an upmarket bar (hard to find in Koh Samui) sitting on bustling Chaweng Beach Road among budget supermarkets, tailor shops and stalls selling fake designer merchandise. There’s a ‘cocktail buffet’, which sounds grim but is really just good value. For two hours you can order as many drinks as you can handle for 1500 baht (about $65). Thcocktails are standout, and you name it, they’ll make it. There’s an excellent Thai sharing menu (Thai tapas) – the mini massaman curry was a highlight. The resort’s signature restaurant, The Page, features a beachfront deck and exceptional interior design. It’s hard to imagine somewhere better to soak up another day sipping on a cocktail or coconut sitting metres from the ocean. Specialising in traditional old-kingdom Thai food that has disappeared from many modern menus, the seafood is exceptional, and small touches like a tamarind sorbet palate cleanser lend a special feel among the bejewelled-sandals set.

Breakfast Culture is another unique offering at The Library, where you can delight in breakfast in bed… on the beach, and the Beach Bar cranks up every day for Happy Hour. Be warned: stay for a cocktail and you may well end up marooned on a beach bean bag as you contemplate the ridiculous plastic pool toys or purchases you’ve just succumbed to from a very persistent beach vendor

For other sophisticated dining options, locals recommend Dining on The Rocks at Six Senses Samui and Tree Tops Sky Dining & Bar at Anantara, or pop up to the Jungle Club, which sits on top of a mountain a short drive from Chaweng. After what seems like you’ve motored up a vertical incline, the resulting view is unrivalled. Bean bags, lanterns and a relaxed bar make it a great spot for a drink while you watch the sun set over crystal blue waters.