Though it’s worth your while, getting to Panarea is no easy feat. Unless you have access to a private boat (like a few of Panarea’s regulars) you’ll need to fly to the mainland of Sicily – either bustling Palermo, or Catania on the east coast. From there, grab a train or hire a car to the port of your choice (Milazzo is often easiest). Jump aboard one of the public ferries run by the ever-reliable Liberty Lines, which offers direct routes to Panarea or the chance to hop between a few of the Aeolian Islands. Transport on the island itself, however, is a lot more limited. There are no cars on Panarea – or not as you know them. Be prepared to hike your way up and down the narrow laneways, or hail one of the designated golf cart taxis which whiz around the island.

Hiring a boat for the day, or an hour or two if you don’t have more time to spare, is a non-negotiable. If your budget doesn’t extend to the luxury motors out front, don’t fret – there are wooden boats galore bobbing about in the harbour, just begging to be enjoyed. It should set you back under AUD$100 for a few hours’ play as you self-navigate your way around the rugged cliffs of the island, cooling off with a dip in its coves. This is not only the best way to see Panarea in its entirety; it’s also the best swimming option – as Panarea is a rocky outcrop, its beaches aren’t made for throwing down a beach towel. But if you’re game, there are a couple of coves, including Cala Zimmari on the far side of the island, accessible only by goat track.

Courtesy of it being surrounded by water and frequented by superyachts and sailboats, it’s offshore that is the most popular place to stay on Panarea. Plenty of Italians choose to hire a boat for the summer and spend a week (or more) sailing around the Aeolians, pulling up for a few nights within easy reach of the island. If you’d prefer to keep your feet on land, Airbnbs or villa hire is common here, with Panarea a popular place to visit with a group (or extended family) in tow. But there are hotels too – stand-out Raya is a suavely styled escape which merges boutique hotel with an ever-popular restaurant and bar. But more traditional Italian bed and breakfasts also abound, including the family-run Hotel Girasole. Simple but charming, this petite hotel has just a cluster of simply tiled rooms, and offers a traditional pastry and coffee breakfast combo, with views out over the sparkling waters below.

Despite a shortage of population, a reliable number of visitors means that Panarea isn’t lacking when it comes to eating options. A cluster of restaurants, more upmarket than not, neighbour the port – rooftop venues where seafood-heaped pastas form the main attraction. Da Francesco and Da Adelina are two of the most popular options. But don’t miss out on a visit to Trattoria Da Paolino, slightly back from town. While the dated decor may pale in comparison to the swanky offerings in the harbour, the view and the food stands head and shoulders above at this traditional trattoria. Gaze out onto the surrounding sea, taking in the volcanic silhouettes in the distance, while you down bowls of fresh mussels dowsed in lemon and oil or handmade casarecce, swirled with anchovies and pistachio.

While fine dining is the forte of Panarea and its guests, there are a handful of bakeries that cater to arancino and panino cravings (this is Italy, after all). Panarea In Forno sits off a side street as you make your hike away back from the main drag. Drop by for a generously sized arancino that’s perfectly crunchy, piping hot and stuffed with rich ragu. There’s plenty of sugar-laden goods, too (the Sicilians are famously fiendish for it). Grab a pistachio-stuffed cannoli and Nutella-laden cookies from the counter. A number of delis sit scattered throughout the small village, catering to residents and longer-term guests, or those procuring snacks ahead of a morning boat ride. Antonia’s is a favourite – a deli perched proudly on the waterfront, with all of the essentials for a day spent neighbouring the Tyrrhenian Sea, including mortadella and local wines, like Sicilian star Occhipinti.

Raya isn’t just one of Panarea’s best-known places for spending the night. It’s arguably most famous for its aperitivo hour, which takes place daily at ‘dusk’, which is anywhere from 6–9pm. Sip on a spritz or negroni, or really whatever takes your fancy, at the bar’s adored roof terrace with unrivalled views out onto the water and surrounding Aeolian Islands. Cocktails are served alongside a generous portion of (complimentary) aperitivo snacks – layered piles of small arancini, cheese, olives and nuts. During its busiest months of the year – typically the Italian summer break of August and September – Raya’s pace quickens at night, turning into a nightclub where dancing is welcomed into the wee hours.