For sceney haute cuisine, you can’t top this glam aerie with the mamma of all panoramas taking in Galata Tower, the Golden Horn and all the minarets of Eminönü. On the menu: dandy Scandi-Turk tasting fare with a focus on fresh produce, plus revamped regional classics from the ‘New Anatolian Kitchen’. After dinner take it to the next level on the open rooftop bar for meticulously-made martinis and stunning sunset vistas. Unbeatable. Marmara Pera Hotel / Meşrutiyet Cad. 15 / Beyoğlu / +90 212 293 5656 / dinner Mon-Sat / book ahead/miklarestaurant.com

The name might denote it as a traditional ‘tradesman’s canteen’ but these days it’s foodies rather than foreman that pack into Chef Şenol’s light, white n’ woody bistro for dynamic, seasonal-driven, daily menus championing classic Med-Aegean cookery. If they’re on offer go for the mucver (zucchini and fresh herb fritters) – best paired with a tall glass of zesty homemade lemonade. Kemankeş Cad. 35 / Karaköy / +90 212 252 6884 / lunch & dinner daily / lokantamaya.com

On Sundays the well-heeled Bebek set flock to the Kempinski’s Venetian-styled parlour overlooking the Bosphorus for luxurious brunch munching. International and Turkish comfort foods range from pides and French pastries to classic eggs benny, cured salmon and sushi that’s rolled right in front of you. Just make sure you save space for the final showstopper: a colossal chocolate buffet with colourful rows of pretty petits fours and home-made ices. Çırağan Palace Kempinski / Yıldız Mh., Çırağan Cad. 32 / Beşiktaş / +90 212 236 7333 / b’fast & dinner daily, lunch Mon-Sat, brunch Sun / book ahead / kempinski.com

Have you hotel call ahead to reserve a seat right by the waterside windows at this 50-odd-year-old kebab stalwart that started life as a humble street stall. These days the glass-roofed digs are a bite more fancy, but the 17 different types of pita-wrapped perfection remain trad and rad, as do the oh-so succulent signature kofte and crispy lahmacun. Pity the service isn’t so pleasing – the second you sit down your table will likely be loaded up with unordered mezze (pick what you want and send the rest back), and watch for the smuggling of unwelcome additions onto the bill. 5/F / Tahmis Caddesi Kalçın Sk. 11 / Eminönü / +90 212 528 03 90 / 11am-midnight hamdi.com.tr

Chef Dağdeviren’s humble ode to forgotten folk recipes is a bona fide dining experience that’s well worth the Bos-cross. Pick outstanding veg-centric starters from the counter window then let your waiter guide you to heartier dishes like beli kirik (slow-cooked beef and eggplant stew), lamb and spinach casserole, and meatballs braised with tart cherries. If it’s looking balmy, book ahead for a dinner table on the simple rooftop terrace. Caferaga Mah. Güneslibahce Sk. 43 / Kadiköy / +90 212 330 3190 / 9am-10pm daily / Çiya Kebap & Çiya Kebap 2 are across at Caferaga Mah. Güneslibahce Sk. 48b & 44 / take the ferry to Kadiköy from Eminönü or Karaköy / ciya.com.tr

The quintessential Istanbul eating experience is meze (mixed starters) at a meyhane (taverna). Istanbul is swamped with them, but the ones along bustling Nevizade Sokak in Beyoğlu are the most authentic and lively. Ney’le Mey’le, Boncuk and seafood fave Imroz are standouts with all serving excellent fare. Raki (anise jet-fuel) is the traditional accompaniment; the best way to enjoy it is to make someone else drink it. Ney’le Mey’le / #12 / +90 212 249 8103 / 9am-2am daily / neylemeyle.com Boncuk / #7a / +90 212 243 1219 / noon-midnight daily Imroz / #16 / +90 212 249 9073 / noon-midnight daily

A neighbourhood pioneer, this funky, characterful coffeehouse set up shop here back when Karaköy wasn’t much more than mechanic shops and spare parts sellers. Four years on and it’s still a firm fave of hip sippers for its top coffee selection, eclectic shab-chic interior and two sides of vine-shaded street front seating. If it looks packed outside don’t be discouraged, you can usually bag a sunny spot by the balcony upstairs. Kara Ali Kaptan Sk. 7 / Karaköy / +90 212 243 69 93 / 8.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 9.30am Sat-Sun / karabatakkarakoy.com

The interior might be a bit blah but one bite into the baklava and you’ll forgive the chintzy ceiling scones. They’ve been serving up the sweet, flakey stuff since the 1820s and have more than a dozen different varieties including plain, chocolate, pistachio and covered in crushed walnuts. There’s a strict no pick n’ mix policy – servings come in six-piece, one-flavour portions and should be enjoyed with a side of kaymak (clotted cream) and çay (strong Turkish tea). Rıhtım Cad. Katlı Otopark Altı 3-4 / Karaköy / +90 212 293 0910 / 7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30pm Sat-Sun / karakoygulluoglu.com

This heady hall of exotic ingreds makes Dubai’s Old Spice Souk look like a paltry salt and pepper set. Before you enter, take a coffee caper to nearby Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi – where they’ve been bean brewing for 140+ years. Fully caffeinated, follow your nose down the fabulously fragrant main aisle past stalls stocked with colourful mounds of saffron, cinnamon, caviar and and dried fruits, stopping at little Aladdin for a jewel-bright bite of the city’s best Turkish delight. Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi / Tahmis Sk. 66 / Eminönü / +90 212 511 4262 / 9am-6pm Mon-Sat / mehmetefendi.com Aladdin / Mısır Çarşısı Lci 6 (Spice Bazaar) / Eminönü / +90 212 520 3829 / 8am-7.30pm daily

Can’t tell a kofte from a kokoreç? Don’t freekeh out, instead get over to this Sultanahmet restaurant for a half-day group cooking class. With the help of local pan man Feyzi Yıldırım and Dutch-born culinarian Eveline Zoutendijk, you’ll whip up five courses of classic regional recipes, then sit down to enjoy the fruit-spiked fattoush of your labour. Private classes are available and all lessons are in English. Akbıyık Cad. 72a / Sultanahmet / +90 212 458 5919 / book ahead / cookingalaturka.com