Portuguese tarts abound in the city’s pastry shops, but the best, and original, is from Pasteis de Belem. Established in 1837 serving a secret recipe handed down from the monks in the nearby Belem monastery, today they continue to pump out tens of thousands of Portuguese custard tarts a day from their pretty blue-tiled cafe-cum-baking HQ. The substantial queues mean the tarts are sold hot from the oven, and boy are they worth the wait – the impossibly flaky pastry just strong enough to enclose the silken custard filling dusted with cinnamon.

Cocktail in hand, of course. Miradouros (terraces or viewpoints) abound across the city, but relaxed rooftop bar Rio Maravilha in the new LX Factory art and dining precinct in Alcantara is the spot for the ultimate sunset drink with the 25 de Abril bridge to one side and the monolithic Christ the Redeemer sculpture across the Tagus River completing the picture. Check out the other bars and eateries in the former waterfront factory space to make a night of it.

Taberna Sal Grosso in the medieval Alfama district is a cosy neighbourhood spot that serves home-style Portuguese dishes washed down with their own house-brewed beer. This unassuming hole-in-the wall lunch and dinner spot is something of a local secret, so a reservation is recommended for those who cannot bear the thought of waiting for the hearty chalkboard menu of rich razor clam rice, cod fishcakes, fig and tomato salad, squid stew, smoked pork belly and sweet potato chips.

Whether chargrilled over a smoky charcoal barbecue and served with steamed potatoes or enveloped in soft white bread with a glass of local vinho verde (green wine) on the side at one of the ubiquitous street-side grills in the Alfama and Castelo district, or scooped from a can and spread over toast to enjoy as a snack, conservas-style, sardines are a national icon – so much so that they have their own festival in Lisbon during the month of June.

Check in to the five-star Four Seasons Ritz, which overlooks the entire city from its elevated perch near the Marques de Pombal statue. The hotel is a lesson in old-school hospitality with its gleaming marble reception, smiling staff, graceful rooms and weekend Champagne brunch, so it’s a surprise then, when you stumble onto the mod rooftop gym and running track, which has a 360-degree view of the entire city. Spot Lisbon’s iconic sites including the Santa Justa lift, São Jorge Castle and even the giant Christ the Redeemer statue across the Tagus River as you sweat it out on what is quite possibly the most scenic urban running track in the world.

Sidecar Touring Co. offers a novel way to explore the city’s winding cobblestone streets and steep neighbourhoods. Their half-day driving tour of Lisbon in a vintage moto-sidecar can accommodate two passengers, and covers city highlights including historic (and hilly) Alfama and Bairro Alto. Scoot along the river bank with the salty breeze in your hair to Belém, stopping at the Torre de Belém and Mosteiro dos Jerónimos monastery before ending the adventure at the Pastéis de Belém bakery for one of the city’s most iconic Portuguese custard tarts.