It’s an imposing red-brick frontage on Sturt Street but a warm welcome as you enter through the green wrought-iron gate and into reception, a welcoming space of couches and a huge bookcase dominated by a black-and-white artwork by Heather B. Swann about the textile industry and the effect of industrialisation. This is just one of the carefully selected artworks throughout the hotel, each one of the seven suites has its own original paintings and ceramics; the suites are named for nearby gold rush towns and each room uses a colour palette that references the region. The public spaces are deliberately monochrome so that when you enter each room you get hit with the burst of colour. Every effort has been made to keep the period features – tiled floors, elaborate cornices, ornate fireplaces – but with a luxurious update of indulgent bathrooms and top-end soft furnishings.

In Ercildoune a blush colour scheme references the soil colour of the region and it is reflected in the Anthea Kemp canvas Inside a Flower 2022 hung over the king-sized bed, a pair of Neville French’s porcelain works are also on display. The bathroom is separated by a curvaceous raised tiled floor with a Rogerseller freestanding bathtub taking centre stage; all bathroom products are by Salus. There are two light settings, “art” and “reading” and a Samsung art TV is almost invisible over the original fireplace, there is also a sensor light in the bathroom for nocturnal visits.

Underbar was drawing diners from all over the country before moving to Hotel Vera but the new, gas-free, sustainable kitchen, designed by Underbar’s chef and culinary director Derek Boath, has seen this degustation experience get even better. Hotel guests are directed through a door in reception that leads right into Boath’s kitchen. Seated at one of the 14 nightly spots, what follows is a serene presentation of dishes like Boath’s “adult snow cone” – a bowl of first-of-the-season baby tomatoes with rainbow trout roe, shaved ice and nasturtium – or a whole, deboned garfish wrapped into a nori roll with a rich bisque sauce made from king prawn heads. Boath’s food is deceptively simple, heroing the local Ballarat produce but with incredible technique behind the scenes, learned from Boath’s years at restaurants like Thomas Keller’s Per Se and perfected at Underbar. Guests don’t have to dine at Underbar to stay at Hotel Vera but if you combine the two it is a truly memorable getaway. From $399 per night, book via hotelballarat.com.au