In a winemaker’s world, perfect vintages are rare beasts. But those special years – when the sunlight, rains and weather patterns unite to create the optimal growing season for the grapes on the vine – can become career defining. For Benoît Gouez of Moët & Chandon, three vintages have emerged above all others since he became chef de cave (that’s cellar master, for those who don’t speak wine) for the illustrious Champagne House in 2005.

Vintage Champagnes are only bottled when the planets align on an ideal year, at most around three to four times in a decade; the majority of Champagnes that you’ll see on the shelves are non-vintage (NV) blends of several seasons. In Champagne, vintage drops must be aged a minimum of three years (by comparison, NVs must only wait 15 months), and are often considered the most pure expression of style. The result is a time capsule for the production year, and is unlikely to be replicated exactly ever again. 

Related story: Moët & Chandon releases two new vintages to ease us into winter 

Gouez recently visited Australia for the debut of his chosen ‘Grand Vintages’, which have been assembled into a collectable trilogy for the first time. Together, the Grand Vintage of 2015, and Grand Vintage Collections of 2006 and 1999 are ‘A Tale of Light’, each highlighting the fortuitous conditions of their bottling year, and showcasing how greatly Champagne can vary year to year, and bottle to bottle. 

After six years in the cellar, Grand Vintage 2015 represents the hottest, driest growing season in Champagne since the early 1960s, with floral lifts, toasty undertones and a crisp acidity to finish. With 15 years on the less, the Grand Vintage Collection 2006 tells of a cold winter that gave way to heat waves and rain, with a flinty start and candied citrus notes. With 21 cellaring years, the Grand Vintage Collection 1999 captures the temperamental, almost tropical season just after Gouez first started at Moët & Chandon as a winemaker in 1998. The result reveals the surprising vibrancy of well-aged Champagnes, with rich warm notes of nougat and coffee alleviated by a refreshing zestiness. 

Only 1000 sets of this limited-edition trio will be released towards the end of this year, early next. Get in early and make a Champagne fan’s year by registering your interest here. 

Related story: A toast to Moët & Chandon, who now have a bridal service