Weeks after opening sake and sushi bar Tombo Den, and just ahead of the hotly anticipated reveal of Batard, Melbourne’s LUCAS Restaurants has unveiled its first Canberra restaurant, Carlotta. It’s the first of two ACT venues that prolific restaurateur Chris Lucas has announced in quick succession, with Mediterranean-inspired Carlotta leading the charge. 

Not known for doing much by halves, Lucas has launched with one of the larger restaurants in Canberra, at the heart of Civic (the CBD). The 120-seat space is anchored and energised by a largely open kitchen. A Marana Forni woodfired oven from Naples greets diners on entry, from which regionally specific focaccia and flatbreads emerge. A chef stands like some kind of fire god in front of an open grill, flipping bistecca alla Fiorentina over flames. The steak arrives at the table with roasted garlic for schmearing, with a selection of condiments presented in silver saucers alongside. Behind the pass, it’s a constant blur of activity; the seats at the marble counter with front-row views of the show are sure to be popular.

Curls of hand-cut campanelle pasta tossed with crab meat come doused in a silky chilli oil, infused with lobster; a taste of the signature lobster à l’Américaine. DOP-protected Podere dei Leoni buffalo mozzarella (air-lifted in once a week from Italy, with the precious cargo distributed between the LUCAS group’s Grill Americano and Carlotta) is torn and sprinkled with black pepper and a splash of EVOO. It’s served simply with ribbons of San Daniele prosciutto. Jamon is draped over a side of garden peas, themselves cooked in a broth infused with the jamon offcuts. Finishing flavour bombs like fresh chilli, grated bottarga and pecorino clouds add up to punchy, umami-forward food. Grill Americano‘s cult tiramisu has migrated up to Canberra, wedges of it dolloped on a plate with spoons for shared scooping.

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The kitchen is led by the group’s new Canberra head of culinary Mark Glenn (who will also launch the as-yet-unnamed French bistro around the corner next year), known for his roles at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Cumulus Inc., as well as Canberra’s own Pialligo Estate. He’s joined by head chef and local Brendan Hill, who Canberrans know from Akiba, Loquita and Wilma.

Their dishes are inspired by plates Lucas has encountered on travels across the Mediterranean and challenged them to recreate, such as the focaccia di recco al formaggio – a popular Genoan street food that allegedly took the team six months to perfect to their satisfaction. (The end result is a crisp-edged round of flatbread, sandwiching still more Italian formaggio).

Lucas may have drawn inspiration from European shores, but there’s a distinct New York steakhouse swagger in Carlotta, adding fuel to Canberra’s growing culinary cred. 

So is Chin Chin Canberra next? Never say never.

Carlotta’s first sitting is on October 21, at 20 Scotts Crossing, Canberra.
Reservations now open.

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