Eat Out

A trio of Love, Tilly alumni to open Ennui, a two-level restaurant and bar in Haymarket

Ennui
Peter Chen, Thomas Bromwich, Samuel Woods
Credit: Lily Austin

One of Sydney's most recognisable buildings has a new lease on life.

Some of Sydney’s most seasoned new-generation hospitality crew are pulling together to open Ennui, a multi-level bar and restaurant in a historic pocket of Sydney’s CBD. 

Thomas Bromwich, Samuel Woods, and Peter Chan are no strangers to high-end venues, warm service, and seriously good food from their years working at restaurants like Bentley and Love, Tilly Devine.

The trio’s new venue, Ennui, enjoys a premium location directly opposite the Capitol Theatre and occupies the two-level, 178-year-old grand sandstone building on the corner of Pitt and Hay Streets.

The lower level will be home to a vibrant cocktail bar while upstairs will be the restaurant, serving sustainable Australian ingredients with Thai and Japanese influences and French techniques. 

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“We wanted to do something different, somewhere that’s refined yet affordable and run completely independently,” says Bromwich.

“We’re putting in the extra effort in the kitchen and the bar so our guests can eat and drink sustainable Australian ingredients – without the prices being prohibitively expensive, all the while reopening a part of Sydney’s historic architecture to the public for the first time in many years.”

The kitchen will showcase ingredients from local, organic producers such as Newcastle Greens, Block 11, Stix Farm and Mussett Holdings, employing French cooking techniques, as well as nods to Woods’ Thai heritage and time spent in Japan.

The menu will feature nostalgic family favourites, from the chicken wings Woods’ mum Noi would serve him during his childhood lunches,  to wallaby crusted with Szechuan pepper, inspired by Bromwich’s tenure at Tasmania’s Stillwater.

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Guests can also look forward to steamed Pacific oysters with Champagne sauce and finger lime; eclairs stuffed with chicken liver parfait and spiced fruit jelly; and a soon-to-be signature duck that combines cooking techniques from both China and France.

The Bentley and Love, Tilly DNA runs deep with a wine list spanning from Australia to Austria, Italy, Germany, France and beyond. The cocktail list is designed by former Earl’s Juke Joint team member Kiaran Bryant who will introduce familiar but new cocktails like espresso martinis with macadamia liqueur and sticky Pedro Ximenez; and a New York sour of sorts that combines dark rum with banana milk punch.

An Australian colour palette of warm wood and dusty neutrals pays homage to the heritage of the building as well as the landscape that dictates Ennui’s sense of place on ancient land.

Ennui is slated to open in August at 461 Pitt Street, Haymarket.

Where should I go for dinner in Sydney tonight?

Until we can burst through Ennui’s doors, we’ve still got plenty of amazing venues to keep us fed and watered. Check out the best new restaurants in Sydney here.

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