‘Nothing lasts forever, and 24 years is a pretty good run,’ Gilmore says. February 2026 marked his last day at the helm of world-renowned fine-dining restaurant Quay. ‘It’s been an amazing ride.’

For almost two-and-a-half decades, Gilmore has been the Executive Chef at Quay, and at Bennelong, where he helped define ‘Modern Australian food’ and become a mentor for an estimated 800 chefs that have passed through the kitchen. 

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On training the next generation of Australian chefs

For Gilmore, it’s not the accolades he’s garnered but the relationships he’s fostered that he’s most proud of.

‘One thing I reflect on a lot is that so many young chefs and front of house professionals have come through and we’ve provided inspiration and training to a couple of generations. I worked out the other day that 800 chefs have gone through the Quay kitchen. A lot of them are doing their own thing now and they all take their own piece of Quay with them,’ he reflects. 

Gilmore credits the people behind the restaurants as the reason for its success, with particular gratitude for its staff. He says the necessity for a solid team is something he learnt quickly, coming from smaller kitchens before stepping into his role at Quay. 

‘You learn straight away that the success of your restaurant is so reliant on having a great staff, and it’s your personal responsibility to impart the message you want to get across. Training is super important and sharing your philosophy and mission to every staff member is essential. It takes a huge team to pull off something like Quay and we’re all so interconnected. For a kitchen like Quay’s to run smoothly, everyone needs to be doing their job and doing it really well. It’s important to set goals and set the tone for where the standard is. A chef has to be focussed not just on the technical side of the cooking, but on people – on encouraging and training them. The more you give the more you receive,’ he says.

Credit: Nikki To

How Quay become of of Australia’s first true farm-to-fork fine diners

As head chef of Quay and a long-standing National Judge for the delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards, Gilmore has become renowned in industry circles for supporting Australian farmers and produce, particularly heirloom vegetables. 

‘The other achievement I’m most proud of is the direct relationships I’ve built with the farmers and growers, fishers, and many different artisans who’ve supported the Quay story.

‘My love of heirloom vegetables and seeking out new ingredients, which weren’t available in the Australian marketplace when I started, led to these relationships. They’ve helped widen the produce that’s available here in Australia and given farmers the confidence to grow different produce. We were one of the first restaurants to influence change like this a good 18-20 years ago.’

How Gilmore helped define modern Australian cuisine

Australia’s landscapes, produce and multicultural influences provided inspiration for Gilmore, who recognised an opportunity to help shape Australia’s dining scene and contemporary cuisine. 

‘Starting at Quay gave me the platform to try and work out what a modern Australian cuisine could be. I wanted to reflect the influence of our multicultural society, the amazing coastlines, and the incredible produce. I had the freedom and opportunity to cook in a way that wasn’t dictated by longstanding culinary traditions. I was able to help define what modern Australian cuisine might be and that’s what I set out to do. Every chef’s dishes are a personal expression of what you believe and your own parameters,’ he says.

Early on, Gilmore needed to decide what mattered to him, and what he wanted to express through his cooking. 

‘Working at this level you need to establish a set of principles. For me, this involved an exploration of texture, an exploration into the intensity of flavour, and drawing inspiration from the natural world. I wanted these ideas to be reflected in the presentation of my dishes.’

Gilmore on the rise of Masterchef and celebrity chef culture

Frequently recognised, thanks in part to his TV appearances, and perhaps most notably for his signature Snow Egg dessert challenge on Masterchef Australia, Gilmore acknowledges that fame has become part of the job.

‘When I first started cooking as an apprentice at 16 in the ’80s, there wasn’t really such a thing as a celebrity chef. As I grew in the industry, especially around the late ’90s and early 2000s that began to happen, which peaked through Masterchef. It’s a weird thing and sort of part of the job. But people love to know the background stories of the food they’re eating and part of that is the chef’s story and vision, alongside providence. The positive is that the public appreciation for what we do has grown immensely because of shows like Masterchef. On the other side, expectations are higher too.’

Why he thinks Australia deserves to be included in the Michelin Guide

Gilmore believes Australia’s restaurants are world-class, but aren’t given the recognition they deserve. The chef suggests the introduction of the Michelin Guide could benefit the nation’s dining scene and its restaurants.

‘I think Australia has a very high standard of cuisine in general and we hold our own against the rest of the world, but it’s not necessarily as appreciated as it should be. Something like the Michelin Guide can provide a benchmark, and it could be a positive thing if it came here. But the Michelin Guide needs support and backing from the government. We’re one of the only countries in the world that doesn’t have that. It’s launching in New Zealand this year, but not here,’ he says.

Gilmore’s proud of Australia’s hospitality industry, explaining that it’s an ‘equitable place to work’. 

He explains, ‘Compared to a lot of countries, we pay hospitality workers a higher level. Generally the bad old days of chefs having temper tantrums are behind us, and in general it’s become a better workplace. As long as you’re passionate and wanting to learn, you’ve got a future – you can’t say that about every profession.’

Related story: Why doesn’t Australia have Michelin stars? It’s not about the food

Credit: Chris McConville

What Gilmore cites as the greatest threat to the Australian dining scene

Gilmore explains that, financially, running a fine-dining restaurant is only getting more challenging, meaning less risks can be taken by chefs and restaurateurs.

‘The greatest threat to our dining scene is homogenisation. Having good wages is great but I think that the public might not understand how expensive it is to operate a restaurant, or a cafe. A lot of people don’t realise that running a fine-dining restaurant is expensive because of all the labour and training. I think the danger is that making a bottom line is getting harder and harder to achieve, which doesn’t leave a lot of space for restaurants that want to produce something original or daring.’

Where does Gilmore recommend we dine in Australia right now?

Gilmore says while there’s plenty of talented chefs to watch in future, there are two he’s most excited about right now.

‘Hugh Allen’s new Melbourne restaurant, Yiaga, is one to watch. And I’m excited to say Bennelong will be in great hands with Rob Cockerill, who’s worked with me for more than 20 years.’

What does he make of his signature Snow Egg dessert’s fame?

Despite having created countless remarkable dishes during his career, Gilmore has become best known for one delicate, spherical dessert: the Snow Egg. 

He laughs, ‘I’m proud of creating the Snow Egg and the fact that it’s become iconic. People find it nostalgic now, but there’s plenty of new ideas to come from me, and from other chefs, so it’s nice to look forward to the future and new dishes ahead too.’

So, what comes after life at the helm of Quay for Gilmore?

One thing is clear: this innovative chef is not ready to hang up his hat just yet.

‘At this stage we are considering moving to Tassie permanently. I love the climate in Tassie, so I’m looking forward to spending some time down there. 

‘The future may be that I do something in Tasmania, but I’m not limiting myself to that option. I’m open and willing to do something somewhere else in Australia or even internationally – more in consulting, using my expertise to guide new projects. That said, I’m still looking at what exactly is to come. It just needs to be the right thing,’ he says.

‘I’m definitely not ready to retire, but I’m looking forward to taking a break and recharging the creative juices.’

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