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Why doesn’t Australia have Michelin stars? It’s not about the food

Quay
The highly acclaimed Quay restaurant, Sydney.
Credit: Nikki To

Australia's restaurants are world-class, but you won't find a Michelin star among them. Here's why.

It’s a global benchmark of excellence, and offers top restaurants added prestige and a guaranteed increase in customers. The magic of a Michelin star (or two, or three) delivers instant global culinary cred. So why don’t we see any Michelin-starred restaurants here in Australia?

It’s nothing to do with our chefs or our dining establishments, the best of which are among the world’s finest. Instead, it all comes down to money.

The Daily Telegraph recently revealed that the Michelin Guide (the publication that awards the stars) approached Tourism Australia back in June last year with a proposal to establish an Australian edition, but was knocked back.

Why? According to The Telegraph, the Michelin Guide was asking for $4 million last financial year, with that cost to increase to five million this financial year, and then to $7.5 million each financial year for the rest of this decade. That’s a lot of money for a few stars. 

Related story: Australia has dominated the world’s best steak rankings, with Neil Perry’s Margaret coming in second

Dave Pynt
Australian chef Dave Pynt has one Michelin star at his Singapore restaurant, Burnt Ends.

It hasn’t stopped other countries splashing some cash, though. In 2017, it was revealed that the Korea Tourism Organisation had paid 2 billion won (about $2.2 million) for Michelin to establish a South Korean guide. In the same year, the Tourism Authority of Thailand also shelled out 144 million Thai baht (about $6.7 million) for a Thai Michelin Guide.

This is an investment in food tourism, yes, but it has also sometimes called into question the authenticity of the guide. Controversy erupted over South Korea’s involvement; the deal was initially meant to be kept secret, and it even led to a lawsuit from one chef. The Korea Times reported that chef Yun Kyoung-suk, the owner of Korean restaurant Yunga-Myunga, was asked to pay money for a ‘Michelin consultant’ and for three stars in the guide. She refused, and her restaurant was not listed. She then sued the Michelin Guide for publicly denouncing her claims of alleged fraud and extortion.  

Related story: Chef Neil Perry honoured with the Icon Award at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants ceremony

Testuyas
Chef Tetsuya Wakuda has been awarded multiple Michelin stars, but never received one for his Sydney restaurant.

Tourism Australia says it will consider other promotional opportunities that fit within budgetary constraints. It has previously funded food tourism campaigns such as hosting the World’s 50 Best awards in Melbourne, back in 2017. And we can all remember that classic Paul Hogan ad from the 1980s, in which he offered to “slip an extra shrimp on the barbie” for tourists who came to visit. 

Is it worth the investment to bring the Michelin Guide here? It’s true we’re on the other side of the globe from many of the world’s greatest restaurants, but perhaps a three-Michelin-starred dining experience would be that extra carrot on a stick to lure intrepid foodies to visit our far shores. 

Chef Peter Gilmore, who surely deserves a bushel of stars, told The Telegraph: “It would see us join other great food destinations around the world, giving our restaurants an internationally recognised benchmark for excellence.”

Related story: A cut above Down Under: Sydney has been named best steak city in the world

Lizard Island Resort
Lizard Island Resort has been awarded three Michelin keys.

Australia has been included in a new Michelin award category – Michelin keys. These are basically the hotel equivalent of Michelin stars, and 35 Aussie hotels have been awarded one, two or even three keys. The only Australian hotel to win three keys is Lizard Island Resort – located on the northernmost island of the Great Barrier Reef. 

Who knows? If the Michelin key system produces enough of a boost to tourism, perhaps Tourism Australia will reconsider its position on Michelin stars, allowing our greatest restaurants to shine brightly on the global stage, just as they deserve. 

Related story: Gordon Ramsay says this Melbourne restaurant deserves a Michelin star. Now, it’s open in Sydney

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