2018 was a rather tumultuous year for Josh Lopez. The Brisbane-based chef departed his longterm gig at modern art hub GOMA to start afresh at new hotel Emporium South Bank. But prior to the opening of its restaurant, Lopez mysteriously left to instead host a series of pop-up dinners at The Bromley Room in West End.
2019, however, looks to be a far different story, with Lopez confirming his purchase of East Brisbane eatery The Wolfe. Lopez will be taking over the fine dining space from chef Paul McGivern and partner Bailee Dawes, after McGivern decided it was time to depart the kitchen after back surgery.
“My hand was forced to either stop cooking or have more operations,” he told The Courier Mail. “Thankfully Josh came along, and he’s young and energetic and a great chef, so he can take The Wolfe to the next thing, which is pretty exciting from my perspective.”
The 40-seat Wolfe is Lopez’s first restaurant and it’s to be a family affair; while he mans the kitchen his wife Krystal will oversee front of house.
Menu-wise, he’s promised that his fare won’t be too stark a departure for Wolfe fans, but he will be putting his own twist on dishes. The a la carte menu will now consist of nine savoury dishes, a cheese course and three desserts. There’s also the option to indulge in a six-course degustation.
“The tasting menu is similar to my inspiration at GOMA days, there’s more referenced dishes which have a unique selling point or story,” explains Lopez. “For me it’s about starting with outstanding produce, developing the story and searching for new and delicious techniques to serve it with respect. The dishes are the distillation of a lot of ideas.”
Unique selling point seems an understatement; one dish has been called Wet My Lips in ode to the call of the quail. It sees the bird’s head and feet joint the carcass on the plate and strewn with green ants, berries and leaves.
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