With an empire of fine-dining omakase restaurants spanning Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, Kushiro’s first foray into the Melbourne scene is not what you might expect. Inspired by the street art and eclectic energy of Brunswick St, Melbourne’s newest Japanese-leaning eatery combines high-end

techniques with casual flair, the scene set immediately by a graffiti feature wall, painted by Chinese Australian artist Shawn Lu. Kushiro Hong Kong, located in the famous Peninsula Hotel, has long been a go-to venue for travelling foodies, and it is under the exacting eye of executive chef Jan Chung that Fitzroy’s Kushiro will break on to the scene.

Chung says: “Our approach (in Melbourne) will be more casual and Japanese-inspired, as our chef insists on using the freshest local produce. Unlike our Hong Kong branch, we can’t source same-day air-delivered fish from the Japanese fish market, so we will offer both an à la carte and banquet-style menu, with many of our larger dishes perfect for sharing.”

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Designed to evoke the atmosphere of a Japanese fishing village, the menu by chef Chung naturally puts local seafood and Japanese techniques at centre stage. The Michelin-trained chef will also bring his two decades of experience at restaurants such as Thai Basil, 81⁄2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana, and HAKU by Hideaki Matsuo to fuse cuisines, culture, and hospitality into what promises to be a singular dining experience.

In a city where food is life, it is Chung’s goal to find a niche while harmonising with the existing culture. “Many Japanese restaurants serve very traditional cuisine, primarily focusing on sushi and sashimi. However, our establishment offers a unique twist by incorporating various international cooking styles while maintaining Japanese-inspired flavours,” he says.

“We use a French-style lobster bisque for our scampi tartare and Italian techniques for our Kushiro-style risotto, which features Japanese ingredients.”

Mind-bending textures of delicate scampi tartare set in a lobster bisque panna cotta sit in opposition to the tableside theatre and punchy flavours of Angus beef short ribs, slow-cooked over 12 hours with rosemary and barley, set aflame with gently warmed whisky. The culinary globe-trot doesn’t stop there, however.

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“Our dishes also include Chinese influences, such as pickled daikon and Chinese-style char siu. Cured salmon is served with ume (plum) infused daikon with spiky black garlic paste, and the richness of the beetroot cured pork belly is cut by astringent papaya,” says Chung.

A menu and attitude dictated by contrast is particularly evident with the interactive dishes available. While omakase is all about individuals enjoying individual portions, personalised and hand-delivered, Fitzroy’s Kushiro will be taking a more communal approach.

Jameson Irish whiskey will be flambeed before your eyes. Roasted toothfish will receive its final flourish of sauce by the handpicked waitstaff, and a dessert of silky tofu panna cotta will be presented and completed at your table with a sticky sweet soy and caramel sauce so you won’t have to wait before diving in.

Kushiro is located at 175 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy. For more details, head to the website.

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