Some of Australia’s most exciting culinary developments have been going down in a city that has, until recently, mostly stayed off the foodie radar. Canberra’s youthful population, large expat community and high turnover of foreign officials – combined with its placement in a region that produces some of the world’s finest meat, wine and truffles – has primed it for culinary dominance. And while its dining scene has so far escaped the recognition it deserves, could it be that our country’s governmental capital has also quietly become its food capital? These are the five restaurants making Canberra’s case.

Pilot

Traditionalists beware: Pilot’s fixed menu dining experience is more of a stunt flight than a cruise-controlled commute. A meal in this dining room decorated with dried native plants twists and turns with the arrival of every seasonally-inspired plate, from the dehydrated tomato-filled tortellini swimming in a sourdough broth, to the meatless massaman curry showcasing an array of inventively prepared carrot. Even the wine pairing sneaks in some surprises, whether it’s a drop of sherry, a naturally fermented cider or a collection of wines sourced entirely from female producers. 1 Wakefield Gardens, Ainslie; pilot restaurant.com.

Such And Such

Photography: Anne Stroud

Such And Such’s ingredient-led menu is by executive chef Nick Petersen (ex-Porteno, Sydney), and on any day might feature fresh, plump oysters from nearby Narooma and a sensational starter of school prawns crusted in a cashew crumb and doused in 666 – dubbed the devil’s spice – to add wallop. Choose wines by the glass from the shortlist of current favourites or dive deeper into the 25+ pages of local and international drops. You’ll want to lick your bowl clean after your last mouthful of the blue eye cod in crazy water, made memorable for its impeccably sourced fish and mussels served in a beautifully seasoned bone broth with sun-dried tomato and cannellini beans. An exciting new eatery, which, like the fine dining Pilot project, is impossible to pigeonhole. 8/220 London Cct, Canberra; suchandsuch.com.

Rebel Rebel

Rebel Rebel is located in the neighbourhood of Acton

Sure, ‘modern Australian’ restaurants slinging shared plates and new world wines might be ubiquitous these days, but there’s a keen originality to proceedings at this lofty, concrete floored eatery nestled on a corner of the reinvigorated Acton precinct. Like the wooden beams that undulate beneath the ceiling, chef Sean McConnell’s deceptively tricky plates are elevated and exposed, offering up huge flavours and sophisticated cookery without any unnecessary flashiness. 23 Marcus Clarke St, Acton; rebelrebeldining.com.au.

XO

Dumplings filled with mapo tofu, pho or laksa; spaghetti carbonara made with salted yolks and Chinese cured pork belly; burrata dressed with the titular XO sauce and heirloom tomatoes… XO definitely isn’t your typical South-East Asian restaurant. From the slickly Scandinavian surrounds and playful cocktail list (including the sake-spiked Japerol Spritz), to the sprinkling of Savage Garden throughout the playlist, this bright, fun diner is almost guaranteed to leave you with a smile – and a hint of noodle – on your face. It’s a strictly set menu affair these days, so visit often to experience the full breadth of what’s on offer. 16 Iluka St, Narrabundah; xo-restaurant.com.au.

Corella

Named for the native Australian bird, this beautiful Eucalyptus green room in pumping Braddon manifests itself as either a wine bar or restaurant, depending on the vibe you’re after. Keen on a long lunch adventure paired with some excellent wine? No problem. Looking for a night of cocktails made with Australian spirits, paired with some outstanding shared plates? Corella’s got you. The menu is a celebration of Australia, both in its use of native ingredients and in its hits of suburban nostalgia; such as the saltbush focaccia served with a delicious butter and Vegemite blend, or the pork chop rubbed with an Old El Paso-esque spice mix made of native herbs and bush spices. But don’t let the novelty of it all fool you, this is some of the finest cooking you’ll find in Canberra. 14 Lonsdale St, Braddon; corellabar.com.au.