Enmore’s iconic Marie-Louise Salon has been glamorously restyled. Behind the pink and mauve facade you’ll now find Bar Louise, a lively Spanish tapas bar from the team behind Porteno. Start with a sherry, then stock up on the pimenton-sprinkled share plates, from a sobrassada tortilla to pork belly chicharrón. Continental’s famed flan-in-a-can also makes a jiggly appearance on the dessert menu. 135 Enmore Rd, Enmore; barlouise.com.au.

It’s a remix! Matt Moran has replaced Bea at Barangaroo House with new restaurant and vinyl bar Rekodo. Head chef Paddy McDermott has put together a finely-tuned menu of Japanese food and drinks, with hits like the DIY temaki hand rolls and fontina cheese taiyaki waffles. Transition smoothly through to dessert with brûléed mango nigiri sushi. Dishes are served alongside a specially curated playlist, amplified through a high-end Klipsch La Scala sound system. Level 1/35 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo; barangaroohouse.com.au/rekodo.

Executive chef Paul Farag takes diners on a full-throttle tour of the Red Sea coastline at new Middle Eastern restaurant Aalia in the Sydney CBD. Impeccably trained waitstaff are armed with an insightful knowledge of the menu that journeys from Egypt to Saudi Arabia, Yemen to Iraq and beyond. One of the most exciting and innovative dishes is the waraq simsim, creamy golden sea urchin resting atop cumin-spiced rice and a glossy sesame leaf. The soft, inviting space has the same warm welcome and sculptural wow of Farag’s menu, reminding you that this is something worth leaving home for. Shop 7.07-7.08/25 Martin Pl, Sydney; aaliarestaurant.com.

Acclaimed chef Narin Kulasai, formerly of Long Chim and Nahm, has opened a casual Thai eatery that stands apart from the Haymarket crowds. There are no numbers or chilli symbols on the menu, and only 10 dishes to choose from. Many you’ll recognise already, including the green curry, made here with pork jowl (hello, pork fat) and lychees, and the fried rice, which is a simple tumble of crab meat and egg. No need to hunt for ice cream afterward – they make an exceptional Thai-style sundae here, using fresh coconut ice cream topped with sweet young palm seeds and candied pumpkin strips. Shop 2, 79 Quay St, Haymarket; porkfat.com.au.

You no longer need to cross the bridge for a taste of Loulou’s famed French fare. The team behind the Lavender Bay bistro has opened a chic brasserie, cafe and bar à vin in the centre of the CBD. Executive chef Billy Hannigan has come from London’s acclaimed Michelin-starred eatery The Ledbury, and the same savoir-faire imbues his antipodean brasserie menu. Every great brasserie has a signature dish and at The Charles, it’s the ‘Canard à la Presse’ – Maremma duck pressed in a copper-plated French press and served in a rich sauce of its own juices. To finish, hail down the roving dessert trolley, which offers up a sweet selection of house-baked cakes, desserts, and petit fours. 66 King St, Sydney; thecharles.sydney.

It’s the bar snack so good Lennox Hastie named his wine bar after it. The Gilda, a popular pintxo from the north of Spain, comprises just three ingredients: a Spanish olive, guindilla pepper and Olasagasti anchovy. Slide the skewer into your mouth and brace for an almighty burst of brine that will have you reaching for an ice cold martini. Now, that’s how you start a meal. The Gildas menu traces its way through Basque Country, with dishes like plump diamond pipis and a smoky jamon-accented broth and sobrassada toast drizzled with warm honey. Instead of the burnt Basque cheesecake there’s a Spanish-style sundae of smoked buffalo milk soft serve swirled with dulce de leche and Arbequina olive oil. 46-48 Albion St, Surry Hills; gildas.com.au.

Nigel Ward has gone all-in on his new Waverley venue, buying the building and overhauling it to create a welcoming space catering for everything from an intimate date night to a raucous group dinner. The name nods to passeggiata – a leisurely evening stroll still observed by many Italians, often in their finest attire. It’s Ward’s invitation for diners to linger and enjoy. But it’s hard to take it slow when there’s salt cod crostino with sweet marinated peppers and school prawn fritti. The 100 per cent Italian wine list focuses on lesser-known regions and varietals to encourage exploration. 318 Bronte Rd, Waverley; passeggiata.net.au.

Having already conquered the French bistro, hospo trio Dan Pepperell, Michael Clift and Andy Tyson have turned their attention to the tratt. Their latest locale, Pellegrino 2000, is our number one spot for fresh pasta, focaccia, fritto misto and more. Located in a two-storey former terrace, you’ll want to book well in advance if you’re to score a spot in the retro-inspired dining room, or better yet, the candle-lit dine-in wine cellar downstairs. But surprisingly, some of the best seats are out on the street. A dedicated wine window is the perfect place to stop for a sangiovese and snack. 80 Campbell St, Surry Hills NSW. pellegrino2000.com.

Art, architecture and atmosphere aplenty sets the tone for a truly Ace adventure at the city’s coolest hotel. Mitch Orr, the pasta master from Acme and CiccaBella, heads up the 18th floor rooftop restaurant with a menu that celebrates umami flavours and draws inspiration from Italian, Japanese and Southeast Asian cuisine. Pink circles of raw alfonsino (a firm red-snapper family fish) shimmer beside peach and tomato jelly. Shiny green peas, pods and white asparagus spears are poised over a milky-sharp vin jaune and soy emulsion. And as for the soft-sticky spoonfuls of steamed choc cake, sparked with ultra-tart orange sorbet, or Orr’s famous caramel popcorn ice-cream medley…it’s seriously ace. 53 Foy Ln, Sydney; kilnsydney.com.

The practised pop-up team from Don Peppino has brought the festa to Redfern. Here chef Daniel Johnston and Harry Levy from the original collective are joined by front-of-houser Ivey Wawn to work their magic on what was previously Ron’s Upstairs. Snack on mozzarella in carozza to start – deep-fried crumbed squares of melted cheese. Or artichoke alla giudia aka roman-style, crisp-fried leaves fanning out around a juicy artichoke-y centre. The polpette di sarde, sardine-balls (as opposed to meatballs) is a winner in a sweet-and-sour tomato sauce dotted with currants and pine-nuts. The drinks list is full of interesting next-gen beverages and natural wines. 133A Redfern St, Redfern; clubfontana.com.