Food Files

Is Darrell Lea liquorice the ultimate Father's Day present?

Darrell Lea liquorice all-sorts, black liquorice, and red liquorice on a pink table
Darrell Lea

Who are they trying to impress?

Is there a more Dad-coded “lolly” than a hunk of ropey black liquorice? Seriously. A straw poll of the delicious. office concluded very scientifically that dads are the only people in Australia actually eating liquorice for pleasure, and even then, we’re sceptical. 

Many of us have early memories of being granted a piece of “Dad’s liquorice” that had been stashed away on a shelf like onyx contraband. We were in on something. We were getting a lolly. Dad never shares his lollies. Who even knew that Dad had lollies? Bitter, vegetal, cloying aniseed rushed across our tongues and up our noses. What on Earth was that? Why would anyone eat that? Why won’t the flavour go away?! Betrayed by your father and by a lolly. It’s a canon event and the thread that binds us.

This is why we have to assume that the only reason that dads eat the black stuff is so they don’t have to share it with the kids. Presumably, there is some sort of compulsory training that men go through when they learn they’re going to become a dad. A desensitising program of sorts with secret handshakes, sterile bunkers, and a lot of mouthwash.

Anecdotal evidence (probably) suggests that approximately 20 percent of black liquorice purchases are made when a dad goes rogue at the supermarket once a year. The other 80 percent is in anticipation of gifting to a dad on Father’s Day. Anthropologists are still unclear at what point in history we collectively agreed that Darrell Lea was the liquorice of choice but it is widely accepted as common knowledge. In the 1990s we even made special pilgrimages to a Darrell Lea store.

Related story: 8 foods people only pretend to like (licorice, we’re looking at you)

Darrell Lea Batch 37 Fresh Liquorice on a white background

Is liquorice good for you?

Groups around Asia and Africa have been using liquorice root for thousands of years for its reported health benefits, including a belief that the plant can help with digestion, sore throats, fever, and that it “tastes good.”

Further to claims that dads enjoy liquorice, they might just be eating it for a thrill. A 2020 report of a Massachusetts man overdosing on liquorice echoes similar medical cases. The liquorice plant contains glycyrrhizic acid which gives it its unique flavour, smell, and toxicity. When eaten in large quantities, glycyrrhizic acid can disrupt how the body retains sodium and excretes potassium, leading to headaches, swelling, high blood pressure, and the heart’s ability to function.

Tastes gross and can kill you? Honestly, what are they trying to prove?

Of all the lollies in the supermarket, it is the obsidian excuse of a treat that dads across the nation have stubbornly determined is The One For Them. Next phase of research will investigate why mums love rocky road so much. More to come.

Related story: Someone has created a licorice, blackcurrant and coriander gin and really?

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