Food Files

The sweet reason nostalgic cakes are taking over

Layer cake from Baker of Things
Credit: Baker of Things

In an increasingly overcomplicated world, simple traditional bakes - just like Grandma might have made - are providing a sweet sense of comfort to a whole new generation.

It’s the cake that broke the internet. Du Plessy Pralin & Otello in Sydney’s West Pymble had been making its Japonaise choc mousse cake without fanfare since 1988, before Chinese social media shot it to fame. By last week, demand was so extreme that baker Paul Adam had to close before Easter to catch up.

The comforting kitsch of the cake (and Margie, who recommended it to Chinese vlogger Max Li) struck a chord with global netizens – but this yearning for old-school bakes is part of a wider trend.

So-called ‘grandma’ hobbies, like knitting and baking, have found new traction on social networks as an antidote to a stressful world. These skills aren’t just nostalgic; their simple pleasures encourage a more frugal way of life.

Unlike intricate pastries such as croissants, think comforting bakes like sponge cakes, slices and scones – the likes of which grace bake sale tables everywhere. Pastry chefs like Nadine Ingram of Flour and Stone and Natalie Paull of Beatrix Bakes have cult followings for their peerless takes on classic bakes; while CWA recipes are consistently some of the most popular on delicious.com.au.

A profile view of the baker's hands dusting a chocolate powder stencil of a bird onto a sponge cake on a stainless steel kitchen table. Credit: Du Plessy Pralin

“Historically, being whipped into uncertain times and economic squeezes, we head back to the hearth – our kitchen” says Paull. “The classic Australian bakes of mile-high jam- and cream- filled sponges, lamingtons, finger buns and vanilla slices may all have their roots in European recipes, but they are a cornerstone of so many local bakers’ sweet memories of small country bakeries or family oven magic.

“It is inevitable that, coupled with a new generation of creativity, cultures and ingredients, the current caking craze is soothing and exciting us all with sweet once more.”

Beatrix Bakes alum Zoe Pearce now helms the ovens at Baker of Things, Maker Coffee’s new bakery arm in Richmond, Melbourne. There are no pastries on sale; the cabinets are instead filled with sprinkle-topped cookies, pound cakes and shortbread.

“More so than nostalgia, we’re keeping it simple,” says co-owner Stephanie Vroom. “We’re creating these really high-quality products without losing that sense of play.

“The technical side is there for sure; we’re modern bakers trying to do something unique and keep it high quality. We’re diving in to simplicity.”

Jocelyn’s Provisions has remained one of Brisbane’s most beloved bakeries since 1996, even as contemporary competitors moved in. Butter cakes, roulades and classic cupcakes still hold pride of place on its menus.

“These recipes have stood the test of time and don’t need reinvention – they are classic for a reason,” says owner Caitlin Gallagher. “Reminders of home, family and traditions will always remain relevant.”

Related article: 24 bread and butter puddings that never get stale

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