This hardy shrub is a true Australian success story. It thrives in our most arid areas, and also desalinates the soil and helps protect it from wind erosion. Plus, its deep roots can source nutrients that other plants can’t reach, and when grazing animals eat saltbush, these nutrients get passed on. 

“It does thrive in those harsh environments,” Bero says. “And when farmers let their lambs eat saltbush, we get saltbush lamb. It’s healthy for them, and it’s also a bonus for us!”

There are dozens of saltbush varieties to be found in different parts of Australia, from ruby saltbush to seaberry saltbush, with each bringing something unique to the table.

“They’re actually not all salty,” Bero says. “They have different leaves, and different colours and flavours, and so there are different ways to use them.”

The best known and most commonly available variety of saltbush is old man saltbush. Bero calls this culinary superstar ‘indigenous oregano’.

Related story: 5 recipes from Mabu Mabu that celebrate native ingredients

“Yes, old man saltbush is salty,” she says. “But after that saltiness has gone away, you’ll get these herby, earthy oregano flavours coming through. That’s why I like it so much – you get two for one out of it.”

This natural saltiness means that saltbush is the ideal healthy natural alternative to salt – a bonus for those of us who love a savoury snack.

“You get the saltiness without having to add extra salt to your dishes,” Bero says. “Plus it gives you those herb flavours, too.”

Saltbush works in many ways beyond being a handy seasoning. You can fry the leaves for a crunchy snack, use it as a rub or add the leaves to your roast fish or meats.

“It works particularly well with game meats,” Bero says. “Also for barbecued meats and briskets. You can even use it fresh and make sauces out of it.”

Looking for the ultimate saltbush snack? You’ll want to check out the recipe for warrigal greens, saltbush & vegetable tempura with green chilli chimichurri in season 2 of Make it delicious. – Flavours of Australia. You can find all the episodes at delicious.com.au/makeitdelicious.