It may be an innocuous little letter but the extra ‘t’ in fetta is kind of a big deal. For one of the most widely known cheeses in the world, there are a lot of misconceptions about feta, the salty, brined Greek cheese made of sheep and goat milk. 

In 2002 a dispute came to a head when Greek officials put a foot down over the flippant use of the name feta around the globe and here in Australia. As a result, the cheese, which historians believe has been produced throughout Greece since around the 8th century BCE, is now regulated by the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) in a similar vein to Parmigiano Reggiano and Champagne. 

Fetta with an extra ‘t’ however, is unregulated and is a clever workaround by cheesemakers outside of Greece who want to produce their version of the ancient cheese. Feta and fetta could be made in a similar process however there are strict rules in place over what counts as authentic, and what does not.

Related story: This “pizza shop of horrors” is serving snakes and crickets on their pies

To use the name feta, there is a load of science-y parameters around moisture content, fat content, and pH levels, but the crux of it comes down to the blend of sheep and goat milk used, where the stock has grazed (on Greek soil, naturally), and a minimum of two months ageing in beechwood barrels. 

Cheese experts Ellie and Sam Studd have some strong feelings around our perceptions of feta in Australia (as well they should), describing much of the local produce available as “mass-produced knock-offs made from cow’s milk, or sold under cleverly duplicitous synonyms.”

So what should you look out for when shopping for this beloved cheese? The Studds tell delicious., “We recommend trying PDO-certified feta, but if you can’t find it, ensure that what you’re buying is at least made with sheep and goat’s milk for a richer, more complex flavour.”

Related story: Don’t panic, but there’s a world haloumi shortage