We are about to enter one of those very special culinary seasons when, in a number of short bursts, we’ll get a succession of delectable fruits. It starts with the arrival of fat, heavy figs that have swollen (and slowly sweetened) in the summer sun, followed by delicate persimmons and robust quinces – it’s a veritable fashion parade of deliciousness. But this isn’t the only produce at its peak at this time of year; this is a banner period for leeks, kiwi fruit and chillies, too.

While peaches and some plums might still be holding on for a few more weeks, stone fruits are largely done for the year and nightshades are coming to an end. With this in mind, and before we discuss what to do with new-season delights, it might be time to make your last melty mozzarella and eggplant bake for the next few months, or indulge in a final Sicilian caponata to serve with grilled fish or chicken.

OK, now we’re ready to talk figs…

FIGS

These have been full of promise for a while now, but they’re too often a little dry and underwhelming. If you still come across these variations, it’s best to roast them, barbecue them, or make Silvia Colloca’s fig, honey and thyme ricotta fritters. Then there’s Danielle Alvarez’s fig and walnut tart.

If, however, you find your figs divinely sweet and juicy, serve them torn in a salad with prosciutto, radicchio and ricotta, or as fresh relief alongside Ellie and Sam Studd’s saganaki kefalotyri (fried slices of the Greek cheese with orange blossom honey – pictured).

Or perhaps just slice the figs as thin as you can, lay them out on a plate and finish with a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkle of crisply fried pancetta, some grated lemon zest and slivers of pistachio. Another idea is to cut them into fat wedges to serve with a bursting creamy burrata, or sweet and raw in a fig and gingerbread trifle. Is your mouth watering yet? If not, then how about a “figgy mess”– some of the ripest figs blitzed to make a coulis with a little freshly squeezed orange juice, and a crispy meringue kissed with a little orange blossom water as it’s whipped up. The final touch is to ensure that the billowy peaks of soft cream have been whipped with a little icing sugar and a few drops of rosewater.

Related story: Matt Preston on how to keep the flame alive this BBQ season 

LEEKS

Now is the time to appreciate leeks. I’d argue that the leek is undoubtedly one of the great alliums, given it cooks quickly, preserves a lot of its brightness and brings its own light sweetness. For dinner, try loading sliced and butter-fried leeks in a puff pastry-topped pie with smoked chicken and pan-toasted kernels of sweetcorn.

Or fry chopped leeks in butter until they almost break down to a creamy mass, then serve with delicate pan-fried fillets of white fish for lunch, or alongside your scrambled eggs for breakfast. Leeks love eggs as much as they love cream and butter, so check out our recipes at delicious.com.au for quiches and frittatas that showcases this veg’s most desirable virtues.

KIWI FRUIT

I love kiwi fruit but it’s comparatively poorly served in recipes. In fact, Ben O’Donoghue’s kiwi fruit purée with mango and passionfruit gelato, and his kiwi fruit “mess” with a blended crème fraîche, mascarpone cream and a limey purée, are about the only recipes that would be welcome in my house. And while the thought of an avocado, kiwi fruit and kale smoothie scares me, the idea of a tropical salad of papaya, kiwi fruit and star fruit gently tossed in a dressing of sweet chilli sauce, lime and fish sauce and served on grilled chicken is terrifying.

Instead, I suggest eating kiwi fruit fresh and on their own, and let’s move on to something far more exciting…

CHILLIES

As the weather cools, this should be one of the cheapest times of the year to buy chillies. So now is the time to make fermented chilli sauces, chilli jams and jellies to serve with cheese or use in recipes, such as a side of ocean trout baked low in a glaze of one of the aforementioned.

You may even make some Calabrian-style chilli oil to spoon onto a pizza, or your own harissa paste to bring a touch of summer heat to the cold winter months. Happy cooking.

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