Drawing back the tasselled peach and gold regency-style brocade curtains of our deluxe suite (Room 218), the dew-kissed streets of Mayfair and the blooming white buds of nearby hawthorns in Green Park glow softly in the early spring sunlight. From the wrought iron and gilded balcony, there is an enchanting stillness, punctuated only by the occasional and iconic black cab rolling along Piccadilly and the gentle birdsong of robins and blackbirds.

Leaning out towards the south side of the park, I catch a glimpse, not of Buckingham Palace, but of the Constance Fund fountain of Diana, a stunning bronze monument dedicated to the Roman goddess (and not the late former British royal princess). This striking emblem of grace and beauty is a fitting reflection of Green Park’s elegance—and of the refined setting in which I find myself.

A stay at The Ritz is an experience that elevates London’s best traditions to an art form. The hotel remains as celebrated today as it was when it first opened over a century ago, quickly becoming a magnet for Edwardian aristocrats, literary luminaries, politicians, and royalty, all drawn to its impeccable grandeur. It’s an establishment where history feels as alive as the present, continuing to enchant both returning patrons and new visitors seeking a taste of quintessential British sophistication. Here, afternoon tea is a cherished ritual, and dinner is a grand affair that evokes the timeless elegance of a different era. 

Back inside, the suite is a feast for the senses, with its richly velvet-textured burgundy damask Louis XVI chairs, neoclassical polished wood tables, and an ivory-coloured vanity set. Above the fireplace, a grand gilded mirror enhances the room’s sumptuous decor. The fireplace, crafted from superbly veined white marble, and intricate crown moulding with gold accents around the ceiling, harmonises effortlessly with the morning light filtering through the windows.

Crossing the soft pile of the carpet to the suite’s private hallway, I open the front door to find a copy of The Times hanging from the brass doorknob—a thoughtful gesture, especially since I’d only mentioned it in passing over martinis at the bar the night before. It’s in these attentive details that The Ritz’s reputation for exceptional service truly shines.

The sitting room, lavishly appointed with floral-upholstered sofas and matching elaborate swag and jabot drapes, chinoiserie lamps, and cornflower blue pillows, beckons with its charm. I pour a coffee while waiting for my bath to be drawn, watching the sunlight shift across the room as it takes on a golden warmth. There is a real spirit of le temps retrouvé, of time settling into a gentle pace within The Ritz’s historic walls. Sipping coffee in the marble-clad bathroom and leafing through the newspaper as I soak in a bath filled with Asprey’s Purple Water, I wonder why every morning at home doesn’t begin this way.

I relish a dress code, and The Ritz doesn’t disappoint—it’s a refreshing delight in a world prone to casualness. Banning shorts, activewear, and trainers (and extending to jeans and sportswear for meals), the code preserves an atmosphere of elegance that defines each interaction. Even at breakfast, most men are dressed in blazers and neckties; I follow suit after my bath with a light tweed jacket and an English rep tie.

Breakfast in The Ritz Restaurant feels like a true occasion; every detail is crafted to elevate the morning into something memorable. The Neoclassical room is filled with soft pink marble columns and romantic murals, while a 24-carat gold-leaf statue of Neptune and Aphrodite shimmers as the main centrepiece, surrounded by garland chandeliers that cast a beautiful light over the space. 

I begin my meal with a bowl of sweet, perfectly hulled English strawberries, served in the signature turquoise and gold-rimmed William Edwards tableware. Tea is prepared and poured tableside by our waiter, arriving alongside a silver tray of delicate pastries. Over a final cup of coffee, I overhear a gentleman at the next table discussing his annual December visit to see The Ritz’s Christmas decorations—a cherished tradition that exemplifies the kind of loyal clientele the hotel attracts.

Meanwhile, around us, trays of traditional English breakfasts are being delivered to guests at tables draped in pristine white tablecloths, while a group of ladies celebrating a birthday enjoy Oscietra caviar atop scrambled eggs, accompanied by Champagne. It’s an illuminating insight into the hotel’s enduring allure, even after more than a hundred years.

When The Ritz opened its doors in 1906, César Ritz set out to introduce the same level of sophistication he had perfected at his famed Paris property, yet thoughtfully tailored to British sensibilities. Partnering once again with the legendary chef Auguste Escoffier, Ritz helped elevate British cuisine to unprecedented heights, establishing The Ritz as a dining destination in its own right.

Balancing tradition with a progressive spirit, The Ritz was also one of the first hotels to welcome unchaperoned women, offering Edwardian women a rare and respectful space to experience independence. Over the decades, it has served as a discreet retreat for stars and royalty alike, from Marilyn Monroe and Charlie Chaplin to modern Hollywood favourites. The late Queen Mother was a frequent guest, with the hotel’s carpenters crafting a custom footstool to ensure her comfort during her visits.

Situated on Piccadilly in Mayfair, the hotel’s location places it within reach of some of London’s most prestigious landmarks. Green Park, with its tranquil pathways leading to Buckingham Palace and The Mall, lies to the southeast, while Bond and Jermyn Street’s boutiques offer refined shopping nearby. Further along, Hatchards offers an astounding selection of books on British history (among other things), while Fortnum & Mason is on the agenda for resupplies of Earl Grey tea, and nearby St James’s Palace and Clarence House add to the regal air of the neighbourhood. Whether exploring these sights or simply strolling back to The Ritz, the address feels fittingly prestigious.

Each afternoon, we find ourselves returning to the Rivoli Bar. With its white-jacketed bartenders, camphor wood panelled walls, and leopard-print upholstery, the bar exudes a distinctive early Art Deco elegance. Designed by Tessa Kennedy, it draws inspiration from the storied railway bar of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.

Here, head mixologist Michele Saladino crafts our drinks—a bone-dry vodka martini with a twist for me, and a Rivoli 75, a twist on the French 75 with yuzu, mandarin, and orange bitters for my travel companion. Nearby, a couple celebrating their anniversary are treated to the theatrics of a vintage Negroni, mixed tableside on a gleaming silver trolley with spirits dating back to the 1960s and ’70s. It’s the sort of place one can easily imagine Fred Astaire gliding across, martini in hand, singing Top Hat, White Tie and Tails.

As evening falls, The Ritz’s Long Gallery transforms from a lively thoroughfare to a more subdued, elegant setting. As we make our way to the Michelin-starred Ritz Restaurant, the hall is filled with women in sparkling gowns and men in tailored Savile Row suits, enjoying drinks in the richly decorated alcoves that line the gallery. In the restaurant, we’re seated at “our” corner table beside the terrace, with a view that allows us to take in the entire room. Over the next four hours, the team led by executive chef John Williams MBE leads us through a seven-course journey celebrating the best of British and seasonal produce.

We begin with a trio of canapés: a Parmesan mousse with Kalamata black olive on a shortbread base, where the richness of the Parmesan shines; a duck liver parfait paired with sour cherry on gingerbread—a combination so well-balanced it has become somewhat of a beloved favourite on the menu we’re told; and an elegant coronation chicken, delicately nestled within a crisp cylindrical tuile. 

Each course builds on the last throughout the meal, from the Isle of Mull scallops with creamy avocado and bright citrus zest to Cornish turbot prepared ‘ton sur ton’—a harmonious presentation of flavours that enhances the fish’s delicate profile. An entrée of Dorset crab, featuring white crab meat blended with crème fraîche, lemon juice, and zest, is garnished with a mound of Oscietra caviar (naturally, this is The Ritz after all).

The wine list, an impressive 95 pages, is as much a marvel as the meal itself, offering selections as thoughtfully curated as the dishes. The sommelier guides us through a pairing journey, beginning with a crisp, mineral-driven 2021 Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner from Austria, its bright acidity and notes of green apple and white pepper perfectly complementing the light seafood flavours. For a heartier pairing, a flinty, barrel-aged Chardonnay from New Zealand’s Kumeu River Estate accompanies the more robust flavours, its subtle toastiness and citrus zest underscoring the earthy notes of the turbot.

Our meal concludes with the iconic crêpe Suzette, flambéed tableside with Grand Marnier and brandy, filling the air with its rich, citrusy aroma, and a refreshing Menton lemon dessert with yoghurt and honey, adorned with meringue, lemon sorbet, and a gold tuile topper—a fitting finale.

Of all The Ritz’s offerings, though, none is as recognisable as its afternoon tea in the Palm Court. Situated at the heart of the Long Gallery, two grand pink marble columns frame this haven of British tradition. Towers of finger sandwiches, pastries, and freshly baked scones with Cornish clotted cream and strawberry preserve are served to the sound of live piano music, often a classic tune like As Time Goes By.

The tea menu, curated by The Ritz’s tea master, Giandomenico Scanu, includes over 20 varieties of loose-leaf teas from around the world, all served in exquisite silverware. As the music of resident pianist Ian Gomes fills the air, the atmosphere becomes one of pure elegance. Once a pianist for Frank Sinatra himself, Ian adds a touch of legendary charm to this cherished Ritz tradition, which has been lovingly upheld for more than three decades.

When it’s finally time to leave, stepping out of The Ritz feels less like a departure and more like emerging from a world all its own. The gentle warmth of farewells from the staff echoes the thoughtful welcome we received, a reminder of the attentiveness woven through every corner of the hotel. In an era where luxury often leans towards favouring the minimalist, The Ritz embraces a richness of detail and tradition that feels both rare and enduring. It’s a place that draws you back, quietly but insistently, until a return feels inevitable. The Ritz doesn’t just set a standard, it sets the standard—it invites you to savour a kind of elegance that thankfully not only endures but thrives here.

The Ritz London
150 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 9BR
theritzlondon.com

Deluxe suites begin at £3,240 per night, with afternoon tea priced at £75 per person (exclusive of drinks other than tea).

This writer stayed as a guest of The Ritz London.