A new lovechild from the Porteno Group (Humble, Bodega x Wyno), has opened in the Sydney CBD. Trattoria Bastardo is an offshoot of the Surry Hills original, combining the food of Bastardo with the vibes of Continental Deli (from which the venue has recently taken over from).  

Classic and delicious recipes, unparalleled styling (courtesy of stylist Sarah Doyle, whose husband also happens to be co-owner Elvis Abrahanowicz), polished service and a pin-up tattoo or three thrown in. Under the guidance of chef and co-owner Ben Milgate, Trattoria Bastardo has left behind the terrazzo tiling and vibrant geometric angles of its Holt Street counterpart, instead opting for a deep-hued olive green and understated (but still fun) star-shaped pendant lights twinkling throughout. 

Related story: Say hello to Bar Louise, the new tapas bar from the Porteno team

But while the vibe is a little less ‘Italian-Riviera-in-the-’60s’, the song remains the same. Walls are adorned with bold, food-centric art by Mikey Freedom and you’re just as likely to hear the tones of The Cure in the air as you are Lucio Battisti and the Bastardo pedigree doesn’t stop there.

Familiar plates of hand-extruded pasta (made each morning by Abrahanowicz’s dad, Adan) have followed the crew to the Big Smoke, and dishes that were fleeting specials in Surry Hills have found a permanent home here like the rigatoni with roughly minced pork, cooked down with chilli-spiked ‘nduja and white wine. It’s one of six pastas on the short and sharp menu, which features a handful of starters; barbecued octopus with chickpeas and prosciutto vinaigrette; crisp salt and pepper calamari mastered by head chef Rudy Ones; and that looming litmus test of any Italian eatery, the zucchini flower.

Simple and classic sides of fennel, orange and olive salads, similarly-themed mains of wagyu meatballs in a rich tomato sauce; fish of the day doused in salsa verde; and eggplant parmigiana topped with mozzarella and fresh basil give way to a dessert that’s equally Italian in approach. If you’re going with the quintessential dolce, it had better be good. Thankfully if Holt Street’s blueprint is anything to go by, we’re confident that the ever-changing roster of house-made gelato, buttermilk panna cotta, or that tiramisu are going to be bangers.

Open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner, the Bastardo is filling the niche of mid-week long-lunches for city workers and offering that rare beast; Monday lunch service. The team evidently also knows that knock offs are as important to a CBD-dwellers as a bus from Wynyward running on time. As such, aperitivo hours kick off from 3:30 and run until 5pm.

Bastardo
167 Phillip Street, Sydney CBD
02 9922 7347
Monday – Friday 12pm – 2:30pm (lunch), 3pm – 5pm (aperitivo) and 5:30pm – 10pm (dinner)
porteno.com.au

Related story: Feeling the pinch? These are the best happy hours in Sydney