There are some things that are so intrinsically French, they immediately pop into your mind at the mere sight of the Tricolore – the Eiffel Tower, Champagne, black-and-white stripey tops, snooty waiters, stinky cheese. But there’s probably nothing more French, food-wise, than the baguette. And now, this humble breadstick has been recognised by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO).

UNESCO has added the baguette to its ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity’ list, where it will now rub shoulders with such things as Spanish bell-ringing, Ukrainian borscht and the Congolese rumba. The list is designed to ensure the protection of important cultural practices that have been passed down through generations. These are often the same practices that are at risk of being lost in what is becoming an increasingly globalised world.

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But what’s so special about the baguette, apart from it being utterly delicious? For one, the recipe is so important to French culture, it’s protected by a 1993 law – Décret Pain – which states that traditional baguettes must be made with only four ingredients: flour, water, salt and yeast. They must also be made on the same premises at which they’re sold, and they cannot contain any preservatives or other additives. Making them requires special knowledge and technique, and no two French baguettes are ever the same.

While there are still many artisanal French bakers who remain determined to keep this proud tradition alive, the number of these bakers has been dwindling, falling by around 400 each year, thanks to the increasing domination of mega supermarkets and bakery chains. Throw a worldwide Covid-induced obsession with sourdough into the mix, and the demise of the authentic French baguette appeared to almost be a fait accompli.

Fortunately for bread lovers everywhere, the new UNESCO listing brings fresh hope to devotees of this crusty, chewy delight. There are now even plans afoot to create a national artisanal baguette day in France, to help remind les Francais of the true value of this key part of their culinary heritage. 

As UNESCO director-general Audrey Azoulay says, “The baguette is a daily ritual, a structuring element of the meal, synonymous with sharing and conviviality. It is important that these skills and social habits continue to exist in the future.” Exactement, madame. 

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