As a chef, the thing that I love most about travelling is the element of surprise. You never know what’s going to make an impression, or where that next special food discovery may occur. Prior to arriving in Sicily, I was already looking forward to exploring the regional produce and cuisine of the Italian island.  I had read so much about the famous seafood couscous, the preserved anchovies, the wild capers and the incredible wine culture.

However, the most striking, memorable and delicious thing I ate was cassatelle pastries in the Sicilian village of Scopello. I find that often, it’s what you least  expect that makes the biggest impact. It’s true that Sicilians are renowned for their desserts and pastries, and cannoli and cassata cake are two of my favourite desserts, but the cassatelle were an exciting new discovery for me.

The sweet surprise

Regional Sicilian food is unique; its blend of southern Italian cuisines with a distinct Arab influence is fascinating. The history of the island is complex, with French, Greek and Spanish invaders over the millennia also influencing the Sicilian food of today.

While in Sicily, I enjoyed visiting Michelin-starred restaurants, local trattoria and exciting markets, and eating street food, but it was the simplicity and purity of flavour of these little pastries that got my attention.

The folded pastry resembles a small pastie filled with fresh ricotta – lightly sweetened and spiked with a touch of lemon zest, vanilla and honey – and is dusted with icing sugar as it comes out of the fryer. Light as a feather, delicate and fragrant, devouring them with a good espresso became my daily ritual for the week I was in Scopello.

Each morning, my walk to the old town to collect my cassatelle took me through a field dotted with stone fruit trees, along the quiet streets past the Torre Bennistra hotel and onto the delightful Panificio di Stabile e Anselmo restaurant.

Here, slabs of pizza with tomato, red peppers and anchovies are the house specialty, as well as cassatelle pastries and a simple panino. I loved the fact that the bakery only sells three items, each a benchmark in its own right, that all sell out quickly every day. 

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Dive on in 

Scopello is an easy drive an hour west of Palermo, along the coast. Falling into the province of Trapani, Scopello borders the Zingaro Nature Reserve. Further north along the coast is the small village San Vito lo Capo, also an incredible place to visit, with some of the most beautiful beaches and swimming spots in Sicily. Scopello is home to the famous Tonnara di Scopello, a well-preserved group of historic buildings that once housed the fishing boats, nets and equipment used to round up tuna. The Tonnara is now a beautiful place to visit, with a museum, cafe and beach club. It’s also a great place to swim and explore the surrounding waters. An abundance of fish surrounding the faraglioni (coastal rock formations) make snorkelling here extra special. For the more adventurous, day boats can be hired from the nearby port town of Castellammare del Golfo to explore the dramatic coastline. 

Bringing it home

When I travel, I still love to cook from time to time, visiting local markets and talking to producers and stallholders to understand the seasons and to gain a better understanding of the local cuisine. 

In the summer months, the produce in Sicily is breathtaking – everything seems to have been grown just around the corner. The local market garden in Scopello has a large selection of fruit and vegetables, most of which are grown on site. Its bountiful selection has some of the best-tasting homegrown produce I have ever encountered. On the same block, there’s also a specialty grocery store with a well-stocked cellar, a butcher and a deli selling the best cheeses to be found in Sicily. It sits so perfectly on the edge of town, it feels as though this place is too good to be true.

At a glance

Where: Scopello is a tiny coastal village in the north west of Sicily, Italy.
Must-eat: Cassatelle pastries from Panificio di Stabile e Anselmo
Must-visit: Tonnara di Scopello, a former tuna fishing complex that now houses an open-air museum and a hotel.
Must-do: The crystal clear waters aren’t just heavenly to swim in. You can also book boat tours that visit surrounding beaches, towns and the Zingaro Nature Reserve.

Make Andrew’s Amara spritz cocktail and panelle (fried chickpeas), both inspired by his time in Scopello.

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