For years, the MCA cafe was one of Sydney’s hidden secrets – a humble cafeteria on the fourth floor sculpture terrace with downright boastful views. So the reaction was cautious when it was announced that the space was being transformed into a fine dining experience by lavish events specialists The Big Group.

The cafe’s closure might mean no more million-dollar views over a $5 coffee, but what Sydney stands to gain is a success story like Michelin-starred RIJKS at Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum, or respected domestic examples such as Brisbane’s GOMA Restaurant or Mona’s multi-faceted food and drinks offering in Hobart. Sydneysiders can decide for themselves this week, with Canvas at the MCA opening on Thursday, October 24.

The food offering is going up against big-name Circular Quay neighbours – namely Bennelong, Quay and Aria – offering artful interpretations of Australian produce. Where Canvas is not trying to compete however, is with price; the $85 two-course menu and $100 three-course are still almost half the price of dinner at these established contemporaries. Big-name and emerging chefs will take their turns leading the kitchen during set residencies. The first to paint the scene is Josh Raine, executive chef at the late, great Tetsuya’s, as well as top restaurants in the UK and Hong Kong. Raine will remain in residence at Canvas until January.

“Our goal wasn’t to take away the space, but to elevate it and offer the museum community, Sydneysiders and visitors an incredible experience with top-quality products,” Raine says. “We’re offering some of the best produce in Australia at a fraction of the cost of most Sydney restaurants, to allow people to enjoy the beautiful Canvas space and the stunning cityscape… We’re really proud to be here and give something special back to the MCA, who have given so much to Sydney.”

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It’s the first Sydney venture for Melbourne-based The Big Group, which specialises in marquee events such as the Australian Open and Spring Racing Carnival. The’s MCA new partner has been tasked with realising the potential in formerly under-utilised spaces, such as the grand art deco Foundation Hall (transformed into a cinematic events space), and ground-floor 240-seat MCA Cafe at Tallawoladah, which picks up where the rooftop cafe left off – with much-needed menu updates. The main event, Canvas, is designed to give the museum a world-class dining offering on par with the artistic experience, open as a restaurant by day for lunch and a private event space at night.

“We are so thrilled to have the opportunity to take over the hospitality at the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia,” The Big Group co-founder Bruce Keebaugh says. “The pinnacle of our hospitality offer at MCA is Canvas, and I feel so proud that this hybrid model of restaurant by day and event space by night is allowing young culinary professionals to have a residence to showcase their work to the world.”

Painting with a restrained palette of creams and natural timber, the space lets the views do the shouting. Not so on the plate, where Raine revels in sculptural plating. His still lifes feature premium produce such as Tasmanian wasabi; Mayura Station wagyu and Cowra lamb custom-cut into a tomahawk style. Hailing from a creative clan, the chef has found ample inspiration in the contemporary art all around and the iconic views out the window.

“Coming from a family of artists, I grew up immersed in art and museums, so this environment already felt like home to me,” Raine says. “It seemed natural to take on this project, as art has always been a significant part of my upbringing and heritage.” He describes the creation of each plate as similar to curating an exhibition: “From the initial idea to the final presentation.”

Canvas opens October 24, on Level 4 at the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia, 140 George St, The Rocks. Open for lunch Wednesday to Sunday, 11am-4:30pm. MCA members receive a 10% discount.