With the cost of living still biting on all sides, the stage is set for the cheap(er), cheerful and casual to take a bigger wedge of the dining-out pie: cafes, diners, and canteens with fine-dining pedigrees are coming to a corner near you. Husband-and-wife duo Lis Davies and Phil Wood, owners of Paddington’s award-winning Ursula’s, are betting that way; trading white tablecloths for candy pink walls and caviar for croissants at their second venue, Cafe Cressida.

Credit: Nikki To

Bringing a kitschy slice of Paris to Woollahra’s Queen Court building – previously home to bills, Luxe and Caffe Agostini’s – Cafe Cressida’s fun approach is immediately signalled by the hand-painted pastries and and burgers on legs adorning the building’s façade and menus, courtesy of Brooklyn stationers Mr Boddington’s Studio. (The playfulness is fitting, as the cafe is named for the duo’s young daughter.)

Related story: Phil Wood’s roast lobster with potato gratin

“When planning the design, we have taken cues from the many wonderful courtyard and terrace cafes and restaurants that make Paris such a beautiful place to visit,” Wood said on Instagram, when announcing the venue. “We hope that Cafe Cressida will be a retreat from the hustle and bustle of life, and we look forward to welcoming you when we open.”

Credit: Nikki To

Running a ‘cafe’ is a new direction for Wood, whose path to Queen Court is steeped in fine diners such as Rockpool, Tetsuya’s, Laura and Pt. Leo Estate on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula, and the Napa Valley’s French Laundry.

But that doesn’t mean Wood and Davies are cutting any corners – just scalloping and ruffling them in vintage threads. Ingredients are sourced from NSW’s best producers, so you’ll find Malfroy’s Gold honey drizzled atop Iggy’s sourdough (and Nonie’s gluten free) bread, full breakfasts finished with LP’s parsley and pecorino sausage, and. Even some of the recipes are locally sourced: “Margie Agostini’s orange cake” signals the return of the cultishly beloved Caffe Agostini slices to Queen Court.

Credit: Steven Woodburn

Davies and Wood are far from the only fine dining restaurateurs to take a more “fine-casual” approach for a spin-off sibling venue or next step. Diners can snag one of Neil Perry’s famous burgers literally Next Door to his Double Bay restaurant Margaret, or a signature Josh Niland nibble like Mooloolaba tuna Scotch eggs at Saint Peter Bar, Josh and Julie’s whole-pub takeover of The Grand National that also houses fine diner Saint Peter.

Related story: Yes, you can experience Saint Peter for pub prices

Corey Costelloe, once culinary director for the entire Hunter St Hospitality group including Rockpool, traded white tablecloths for Wagyu-fat-fried potato wedges with his wildly successful 20 Chapel opening in Marrickville last year. And in Manly, restaurateurs Anna and Alessandro Pavoni – previously best known for high-end restaurants like Ormeggio at The Spit and a’Mare – have put their skills to use at casual seaside trattoria Cibaria Manly, complete with takeaway gelato and a casual caffetteria trading in panini and pizzette.

Cafe Cressida, 118 Queen Street, Woollahra
cafecressida.com.au