A big-dollar refit of the old Rigoni’s site has helped create a restaurant with a sense of occasion. Italian flavours are elevated with flair. Highlights include egg taglierini with blue swimmer crab, and capsicum that’s roasted, marinated and roasted again until it becomes an intense vegetable toffee offset by a vibrant green pool of thyme oil. 27 Leigh St, Adelaide SA. fugazzi.com.au

The attraction begins with the hypnotic buzz that invariably accompanies a restaurant firing on all cylinders. It’s an intimate, moody space, filled with diners across a mix of high and low tables. Start with a skewer of wood grilled pork belly pieces in an addictive smoked pineapple sauce or the signature gnocchi fritto fried bread with whipped ricotta, honey and a grind of black pepper. Grilled flat-iron steak with whipped mustard butter and marsala jus is a highlight. Shop 2/160 King William Rd, Hyde Park SA. nidobarpasta.com.au

The series of converted black shipping containers that make up Mitolo’s stylish cellar door and restaurant have been transformed into a lively osteria-style eatery with a proud Italian accent. The Da Noi (Feed Me) option or La Parnarda shared feast follow a familiar Italian pattern, but with unexpected twists. House-cured salumi includes outstanding mortadella flecked with slow-roasted capsicum. Snacks of roasted roman artichoke and tuna tartare on grilled avocado lead to handmade pasta, then protein. All dishes are in sympathy with Mitolo’s wines. 141 McMurtrie Rd, McLaren Vale SA. mitolowines.com.au

Oggi has become a long-time favourite in Adelaide’s dining scene and for good reason – it’s got the looks, the atmosphere and the contemporary Italian dishes that keep us coming back. To start, baby squid tubes, shaped like little bonnets, are all sweet innocence before being slathered in wicked melted nduja. Pasta options are aplenty, from fantastic crab linguine to maccheroni with rabbit ragu. There are meat and fish options, too – just be sure to leave room for their take on tiramisu. 76 Pirie St, Adelaide SA. osteriaoggi.com.au

Here’s the thing: Casa Carboni is not a restaurant. At heart, it’s a humble cooking school that opens for simple meals towards the end of the week and a long lunch on Sundays. Here, you’re in owner/teacher/cook Matteo Carboni’s hands. A procession of traditional Italian flavours might include beautifully cooked ox tongue on lightly pickled red cabbage, topped with garlicky salsa verde, and perfectly pleated ravioli glossy with Paris Creek butter sauce. Do as the Italians do, and finish with a sweet and an espresso. 67 Murray St Angaston SA. casacarboni.com.au

All the tables in the ground-floor dining room and even the undercover courtyard can watch the chefs in action but the best seats to nab are along the Orso bar, where a lucky few can get up close and personal with the food team. Standout starters are a simple stracciatella corralled by pickled rhubarb, fig, prosciutto and fig leaf oil, and a luscious beef tartare offset by walnuts, piquant fried capers and horseradish cream. There’s a trio of pastas (perhaps pipe rigata with duck leg ragu), as well as tempting sirloin and fish. 36 Kensington Rd, Rose Park SA. orsokensington.com.au

The Italian eatery that has been serving Adelaideans since 1985 continues to excel. The lighting and ambience are perfect, it’s quiet enough to have a conversation even when it’s busy, and the wait staff are friendly and knowledgeable. Scallops gently grilled in the half shell, served with a splash of Genovese pesto and a crunchy crostini, is a highlight. As is the blue swimmer crab linguine, and King George whiting with burro bianco and Boston Bay mussels. Finish with a classic affogato or a selection of great Italian cheeses. 160 Hutt St, Adelaide SA. chianti.net.au

Italian stalwart Enzo’s continues to tick along on the tails of its professional team of career waiters, both young and older, all full of life and dedicated to excellent service. Classics remain covered. Freshly made fettuccine “Umbria” is the superstar, however, so rich and unctuous with porcini and Swiss browns vying for attention in a sauce of Italian sausage, black truffle paste and a deft splash of cream. Finish with a dessert special of Bailey’s panna cotta. 46 Port Rd, Hindmarsh SA. enzosristorante.com.au

It’s not just the heartwarming, homely flavours of the pasta sauces that make dinner at Ruby Red Flamingo like a night with your nonna. There’s also the brown and orange floral pattern on the crockery that every household seemed to have in the ‘70s that echoes of a time when life was less complicated. Don’t want pasta? Try the baked polenta, filled with a medley of mushrooms and smothered in a ladle-load of triple-cheese (provolone, fontina, parmesan) sauce. 142 Tynte St, North Adelaide SA. rubyredflamingo.com

Tucked away below street level, just off Grenfell Plaza, this Italian eatery has a convivial, warm atmosphere, even on a cool Saturday night. The venue’s specialty, tagliatelle con salsicce in bianco, brings together house-made pork sausage, basil and enough chilli to light up the night. Bravo. For those with a larger appetite, there’s the usual antipasto favourites, along with a couple of customary Italian meat dishes – veal saltimbocca and cotoletta alla Milanese – which you can enjoy with a wide range of local or Italian wines. 1/25 Grenfell St, Adelaide SA. borsapastacucina.com

Italy-meets-Asia at this contemporary Prospect eatery that’s buzzing on a Friday and Saturday night. This is a place to go with friends, grab a few cocktails and share some excellent antipasto before moving on to pizza and pasta. Highlights include blue swimmer crab “spaghetti” that leans closer to noodles, tossed through with chilli oil (lots of it) and piled with crunchy fried and fresh spring onions; and the kimchi pizza (yes, kimchi) perfectly puffed and charred, with oozy scamorza cheese. 96 Prospect Rd, Prospect SA. anchovybandit.com