Chef Peter Gilmore changed our perception of what dessert can be when he introduced his Snow Egg to the world on MasterChef Australia. What was one of Sydney’s best restaurants for harbourside special occasions became the hardest in the city to get into, with waitlists for months, especially on a weekend. All those foodies hoping for a perfect place to propose had to find another location, or postpone their marital plans by six months. This is inventive, extraordinary food. Think: smoked eel cream, sea cucumber cracking and Oscietra caviar with blossoms. There’s nothing ordinary about this place, and it’s worth the wait, better still if you can find a night when a ship isn’t pulled up outside and blocking some of the view. At times like this though, even cashed-up diners can’t be choosers. Upper Level Overseas Passenger Terminal, The Rocks NSW. quay.com.au

Cooking over flames is hot on the international fine-dining circuit. And in Australia, no one does it better than Lennox Hastie. Even before an appearance on Netflix’s Chef’s Table made scoring a table here a competitive sport, Firedoor had become renowned for fire-fuelled cooking of unexpected delicacy. In the open kitchen that forms the smouldering heart of the venue, Hastie calmly supervises the wood-fired grills. From flame to plate, there’s nowhere to hide in Hastie’s kitchen. It’s dinner theatre acted out by a team firing on all cylinders. 23-33 Mary St, Surry Hills NSW. firedoor.com.au

Having already conquered the French bistro, hospo trio Dan Pepperell, Michael Clift and Andy Tyson have turned their attention to the tratt. Their latest locale, Pellegrino 2000, is our number one spot for fresh pasta, focaccia, fritto misto and more. Located in a two-storey former terrace, you’ll want to book well in advance if you’re to score a spot in the retro-inspired dining room, or better yet, the candle-lit dine-in wine cellar downstairs. But surprisingly, some of the best seats are out on the street. A dedicated wine window is the perfect place to stop for a sangiovese and snack. 80 Campbell St, Surry Hills NSW. pellegrino2000.com.

Cafe Paci, with its warm, vibey dining room, has stood strong during the pandemic. Ordering wisely is a must here: the food is rich, and if you want to try one of everything you may indeed roll out through the front door at the end. Allow the fantastic wait staff to guide you (and rein you in as needed), and if you’re blown away by the wine suggestions they’ll direct you to a website where you might be able to find the very same drop. 131 King St, Newtown; cafepaci.com.au.

Saint Peter’s long marble bar is the only place to sit, quite literally, at this bright and beautiful fish restaurant by Josh Niland. Spots for two and three fill quickly, but going it alone might be the best kept secret to finding a coveted seat last minute. At lunch Niland offers an a la carte menu, and a few of the snacks are pre-prepped and in prime position for checking before you order. Try the mortadella with olives, and the tuna tartare, and take heed on the most excellent advice on what wine to match with your order. 362 Oxford St, Paddington NSW. saintpeter.com.au.

Within the gleaming tower that is Crown Sydney is the plush and hushed surrounds of a serious fine-diner, and an international one, at that. The new outpost of Michelin-starred London chef Clare Smyth, Oncore has harbour views everywhere and a pointy-end menu to match. Whether opting for the seven-course tasting menu or a three-course selection, you’re instantly elevated to the excitement of “The Beginning”, teensy tastes delivered on sea-fronds, pebbles, gilt skewers and mossy logs. Quite simply, Oncore is serious, traditional, immaculate fine-dining in a special occasion room with breathtaking views. Crown Sydney, Level 26/1 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo NSW. crownsydney.com.au

Three generations of the Perry family have come together to pull off this unmissable dining experience that takes its name from Neil Perry’s mother, Margaret. And judging by the stunning $5m dining room, it’s clear she was a woman of taste. Perry’s menu is all about modern Australian fare, but it’s his emphasis on the producer that really stands out. Only the best-of-the-best makes the cut. The obvious care and attention that has gone into creating a flawless experience, the warmth of the staff and the generosity of the food, will make every guest feel like a member of the family. 30-36 Bay St, Double Bay NSW. margaretdoublebay.com

The first independent restaurant of acclaimed chef Phil Wood, formerly of Pt. Leo Estate and Rockpool, Ursula’s sits within a pretty corner terrace in the leafy backstreets of Paddington. The newly renovated space could just as easily be an art gallery, and the menu proves Wood’s talent at turning simple dishes into showstopping masterworks. The restaurant is billed as a neighbourhood diner, but we’re not so sure about that. If locals thought they could keep Ursula’s all to themselves, they’d better think again. 92 Hargrave St, Paddington NSW. ursulas.com.au

Executive chef Paul Farag takes diners on a full-throttle tour of the Red Sea coastline at new Middle Eastern restaurant Aalia in the Sydney CBD. Impeccably trained waitstaff are armed with an insightful knowledge of the menu that journeys from Egypt to Saudi Arabia, Yemen to Iraq and beyond. One of the most exciting and innovative dishes is the waraq simsim, creamy golden sea urchin resting atop cumin-spiced rice and a glossy sesame leaf. The soft, inviting space has the same warm welcome and sculptural wow of Farag’s menu, reminding you that this is something worth leaving home for. Shop 7.07-7.08/25 Martin Pl, Sydney; aaliarestaurant.com.

Most are coupled up at this Chippendale restaurant, which has chef Mat Lindsay at the pans. It’s a special place, and only the most patient find tables. But there’s a curved bar with a view to the wood-fired kitchen and cocktail making, perfect for solo diners. There’s plenty to see and the snacks are great. The famous blood sausage sanga is a complex, delicious morsel that belies its fun name. There’s a neighbourhood but edgy vibe here, welcoming to all, and you’re likely to get a walk-in seat most days. 46-52 Meagher St, Chippendale; ester-restaurant.com.au.